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Hai Karate 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Equipped by Steve Edwards, FA by Bob Banks
Season: Always—unless, of course, it's wet.
Page Views: 892
Submitted By: andy patterson on Nov 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Cobwebs on Hai Karate. Draw your own conclusions.


Follows a somewhat natural line up a series of holes and cobbles. For some reason, this route doesn't seem to get done as much as other routes, but the movement is engaging, consistent, and surprisingly technical. The moves are cruxy past the third bolt, after which you get a decent rest before plowing through a "face-climb" crux past the fourth bolt.

In a nutshell: powerful at the bottom, techie at the top.


Begins on dirt platform left of Old Pro Skill.


Fixed Draws.

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By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Nov 10, 2010

There is some discussion about whether this route is 12d or 13a. To my knowledge, the route has only seen two ascents, and it has been remarked that Hai Karate "felt harder" than other 12d's at the Tor, such as Shatterhand. That report does not, of course, necessarily bump it to 13a.

Try it, see what you think, and weigh in.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 24, 2011

It was originally equipped by Perlin, then upgraded and opened by me. This is a big distinction at the Tor since routes often takes weeks to build. As for the grade, hmmm. It would certainly be 13a most places I've climbed. The Tor isn't most places so 12d seems fair. Is it really harder than the others? Moves, sure, but it's less sustained.
By Marathon
Mar 31, 2014

Thanks Steve and Phil, this is a great route.
Just recently Phil cleaned up this climb again, and its in good shape. Hopefully more people get on it and show it some love, Hai Karate doesn't deserve cobwebs.

As for the grade: Like Steve said, its less sustained than the others.
It might be a bit easier than the others too?
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Nov 18, 2014

Although, as Ben Moon said, if you can't do the moves then there's nothing to endure. The crux is this is pretty damn hard. Or used to be.

But I only popped in here to comment that this route showed up as a highlighted classic here on Mountain Project. Jesus Christ, the one it took the place of was a classic Spanish limestone masterpiece. I mean, I'm sure Phil's further cleaning was magnificent but, um, still. Inverted sandbox or Oliana? All 4 star routes are not created equal. Now wondering if the MO of that site is to sandbag people.

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