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Haegar 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Aawait on Jul 25, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Megan peeking around the cruxy lip

Description 

A friend suggested I do this route while I was in Nissedal as it had "just really good climbing". He was right! On the south side of Haegerfjell, Haegar climbs slabs and flakes to a large corner/groove which it basically follows to the top of the wall.

The climbing is varied and generally well protected although there are certainly sections where a bit of a runout is required (albeit with good gear down below).

I used the Rockfax beta (mobile app you can use to get mini guide for this area) when I did this route. I will provide my own descriptions of the pitches I climbed below.

pitch 0 (optional): 5 easy ~60m - Roped up when the slab steepened beneath a left facing corner. Climbed up the slab to the left facing corner, placed gear, and executed some easy layback moves to the top of the corner and moved right (underneath more cracks and the rest of the route) to belay

pitch 1: 5.8 ~45m - climbed left facing corner/cracks up and left(following the cracks 30m) until reaching a 6inch ledge allowed me to traverse back right and then easy climbing led to a belay below some flakes.
* Variation: A party below us just climbed straight up the slab, pulling over to the right of the *shallow)left facing corner at the start of the pitch. Looked run out but faster.

pitch 2: 5.10a 30m *boulder/mental crux* - climbed up flakes (3inch cams useful) until I arrived at a small ledge with 10m of slab separating me from a large belay ledge. Placing some gear below my feet, executed a 5.10a move to gain good holds up and to my right which were used to climb up onto lower angle slab and traverse over to the belay.

pitch 3: 5.8+ 70m - followed the right facing corner/crack system up the 'ramp', at certain points face climbing and transitioning to different cracks. After 50m I reached a ledge (optional belay for shorter ropes) and continued climbing up the right facing corner/crack to a big grassy ledge with small trees (with steeper and sustained climbing above).

pitch 4: 5.10b/c 40m *sustained crux* - climbed the steeper right facing corner/finger-crack with bomber gear. Reaching the lip, made some exciting moves to gain higher footholds(and get over the lip). Set up a belay in some cracks just above.

pitch 5: 5.9 70m - climbed the wide crack for a bit, exiting left earlier in the pitch on to good face/slab climbing when the wide crack steepened (and got wider) and then back right into the corner. Again higher up I exited the wider crack to the left for good face climbing to gain a nice 1inch crack which led to lower angle terrain above. Climbed up easy stuff until my rope ran out and built a belay.

pitch 6: 5 easy 20m - moved the belay to the base of the obvious right facing crack/groove.

pitch 7: 5.9 45m - climbed the right facing crack/groove. Large gear was nice at the beginning. Good face holds higher up made things fun. Set up belay with awesome position above on the large ledge.

pitch 8: 5.7 50m - climbed slabby terrain straight up until reaching a larger steep section. Traversed left for some time to gain large grass ledge with trees and bushes.

Descent: Follow faint trail west until gaining the upper low angle terrain of Haegerfjell proper. Follow cairns and trails west until eventually traveling into the woods. Keep following the trail until you merge with the main trail (marked with blue dots) which will lead you back to the road and your car.

Location 

You can see this route from the Haegerfjell parking area (middle left side of the big south face, major corner left of Mota Sola, look for Haeger's cruxy lip). Walk through the gate and on the road heading west below the south face. Once directly beneath the route (still on the road) search for a small cairn and climbers trail heading up to slabs beneath the route. Climb these slabs until you feel like roping up.

Protection 

60 or 70 meter rope

Double rack to 3 inch.
I brought a BD #4 and #5 and used them(although never felt like I relied on them), certainly unnecessary for confident party.


Photos of Haegar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan post lip move
Megan post lip move
Rock Climbing Photo: Haeger with some rough topo
BETA PHOTO: Haeger with some rough topo

Comments on Haegar Add Comment
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By Megan Hope
Jul 26, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome climb! First "pitch" kind of wanders to the ledge but then route finding gets easier. I followed on this climb and the gear was plentiful and bomber. I highly recommend this climb to anybody!

Bring a BD #4 and #5 - we used both multiple times!

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