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Gypsy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Grahm Doe and Brent Webster, 2004
Page Views: 2,802
Submitted By: Brad G on Feb 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The crux move on Gypsy Photo by Natalie Makardish

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an awesome line. It goes up one of the cleaner sections of wall at the Quarry. Its hard to give a crux. It's very sustained for the first 40 or 50 feet. It really hard around the 7th or 8th bolt so I'd have to say that’s the crux. After that it gets less steep and more holds appear. One more cruxy section will lead you the anchors. Currently there are fixed draws on this route.

Location 

This is the line with fixed draws that climbs through a roof in the beginning then moves into a steep wall with some orange rock here and there. There are some large boulders with a bolt and chalked holds right near the base of the climb

Protection 

13 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Gypsy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost finished with the crux moves on Gypsy. Phot...
Almost finished with the crux moves on Gypsy. Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaking out on this tough route..
Shaking out on this tough route..
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux on Gypsy
Just past the crux on Gypsy
Rock Climbing Photo: You wouldnt want to fall making the second clip
You wouldnt want to fall making the second clip
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Gypsy
Climber on Gypsy

Comments on Gypsy Add Comment
Show which comments
By tobin sanson
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 15, 2010

Any possibility there are still fixed draws?
By Brad G
From: 1994 Honda Civic
Mar 14, 2011

As of Sunday there were three fixed draws on the route.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 13, 2014

Rated 5.13c in the latest guidebook to the area.