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Arrowhead Wall
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Broken Arrow  T 
Garvey Who S 
Gypsy Ninja S 
Less Gypsy, More Ninja S 
Less is More S 
Thief Among Us S 

Gypsy Ninja 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eddie Phay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: Jared LaVacque on May 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start on Thief Among Us and then move left at the 5th bolt, for 2 bolts, and clip the anchors of Less is More. The crux is on a thin right hand 45 crimp with out-stretched feet, between the 5th and 7th bolt. Great pockets and crimps from bottom to top.

Location 

Once you are at "Stone Master" walk left and a trail will bring you to the arrow head wall, following steep scree and vegetation, to an exposed area, above the Main Wall.

Starts and shares the same first five bolts as Thief Among Us, then diverges to the left, for 2 bolts, to the huge chain anchor on Less is More.

Protection 

Draws and Rope


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By sasquatch
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

The variation only has 2 bolts, not three.

The epoxy on a couple of the upper holds detracts from the overall aesthetics, but the movement is quite good. Thin and delicate vertical face climbing, which is rare for Alaska.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 21, 2014

Corrected the bolt count. I couldn't remember when looking over from Thief, if it was 2 or 3. A little epoxy is better than a whole wall full of it and held together with it and the most atrocious bolt grid I have ever seen...ahem...Weiner.
By The Shocker
May 25, 2014

Oh cool, just what every classic route needs.... A 2 bolt epoxied variation.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 26, 2014

Probably better this way and non-contrived, though epoxied, than atrocious semi-grid bolted routes that are mostly epoxy and diverge and converge like Wookie. It is what it is and for it being Chugach crud, it's pretty good and it's what we have. Now, if there were only more of the Arrowhead Wall...face climbing is in the lacking department here.

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