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Gypsie Fire 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Rachael Lynn
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Arlo F Niederer on May 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Location of route and bolts.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


The crux is at the fifth bolt. If you go straight up at the bolt, it is harder than 5.5. It is easier if you step to the right.


This route goes up a lower angled, featured portion of the cliff just right of the large twin roofs near the right end of the cliff.


6 draws plus draws for the anchor.

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By Josh Woelfle
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 14, 2013

This certainly seemed much harder than 5.5, after the first few clips, sticking close to the bolts.
By Sean Peter
From: IL
Aug 15, 2013

Chose this for my first lead ever - moved over to the "5.6" to the right when this one got much more runout and tricky at the 5th bolt. The 5.6 next to it is more like a 5.4. Still this is an easy climb- but wanted really easy for my first lead :)
By Dave Bn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Skip the first bolt or bring shoulder length draws for the first two bolts.

98% of this route is 5.5. The move past the fifth bolt, however, is not.
By KyleS
Jul 13, 2015

I climbed this on Saturday (7/11/15), and the nut on the last bolt was not even finger tight. I tightened it as much as possible with my fingers, because I didn't have any tools with me, but the next person up it might consider bringing a wrench. All the hardware appeared to be in good condition, just needs tightening.
By Steven W
Jun 12, 2016

Confirmed. Last bolt is still loose (6/12/2016).
By L Kap
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2016

I agree with previous commenters that Rip Chords is easier to lead than this one.

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