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The Middle Ages
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Arbalest T 
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Book of Wasps T 
Edge of an Age T 
Gnarnian Renaissance T 
Green Knight T 
Guy in the Gulley T 
Morning Star T 
Trebuchet T 
Turn the Page T 
Two Handed Flail T 
White Hawk T 

Guy in the Gulley 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Aug 20, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The route in relation to surrounding routes. YELL...


I climbed this thinking this might have been Bushy Buffoonery, but I doubt it is according to the vividly drawn topo in Toula's book. Whatever it is, this crack has decent rock quality and not much harder than 5.7 which is unique for the area.

Rap to the right of Book of Wasps down a dark brown gulley. I started the pitch from the first good ledge with a bush. Apparently BB would have started from the bottom of the canyon.

Face climb and stem around a fairly wide crack. #4C4, or equiv. Follow this crack system to good hand jamming for the rest of the way.


Just climbers right of Book of Wasps.


Mostly hands with some wide pieces. Fallen tree can be used as top belay. Belay anchor takes variety of gear.

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By Jed G
Sep 2, 2017

It's good that you explored some easier terrain and posted this here, I think more routes at a greater range of grades can be a good thing.

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