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Gut's Nachtle S 

Gut's Nachtle 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Uwe Robler, Vangelis Batsios, Sept. 1993
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Jun 21, 2010

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John leading up pitch 1 of Gut's Nachtle.

Description 

Gut's Nachtle climbs up an obvious black water streak. The first two pitches of this route are 4 star classic, the 3rd pitch is okay, the last pitch is choss. It is possible to just climb the first two pitched but then you'll miss topping out.

Pitch one starts up an easy slab with a big runout to the first bolt. This is followed by steeper well protected climbing with a hard bulge and 9 bolts total (5.10c, 40m).

Pitch two continues up the water streak on sustained vertical rock with a crux bulge at the end just before the anchors. This pitch has 8 bolts and is even more classic than the first pitch (5.10d, 30m).

Pitch three climbs a insecure groove with 2 bolts to a single large eyebolt anchor, 2 bolts (5.9, 20m).

The final pitch is 3rd or 4th class with no protection on mossy crappy rock. Belay at a tree.

Location 

Gut's Nachtle is located on the north side of Pixari making a great choice for warmer days. Follow the same road in the description for Pixari but once you get to some houses just head right and on one of the roads in town. As long as your going up hill you'll get to the parking area which is at the end of the road next to an old church (see main photo for Pixari). From here walk through the church grounds to the back of the church, climb up a short wall and keep heading towards Pixari. Once you've hit the base of the wall go left following faint trails that get better until your below the route. There will probably be almost no sign of a trail at the church but don't worry your going the right way.

To descend bushwhack up from the last belay and head left to a small saddle. It will look like there might be an anchor a short distance down the other side of the saddle but don't go down there, the rock is covered in loose gravel with a 100+m drop if you slip. Instead climb up the little summit to you right (easy 5th class) about 40' and head around the left side of the summit to a large single eyebolt. Rap off here to a saddle between Pixari and Grosse Heilige. Climb up some chiseled step towards Grosse Heilige and downclimb a short drop to a grassy saddle. Head left (north) down intermittent climbers trails and slabs and then follow the base of Pixari left until you are back at the start of Gut's Nachtle.

Protection 

9 quickdraws is all you'll need for this route. The anchors are either two bolts or one large ring bolt.


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Rock Climbing Photo: John following the 2nd pitch of Gut's Nachtle.
John following the 2nd pitch of Gut's Nachtle.

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