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Guppy Roof 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Kalakay, Scott Wade, 1984
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Kevin Volkening on Jun 18, 2011  with updates from Matt Wenger

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Ultra classic route, on par with the best, crush this route! Make your way up easy terrain to a good rest below the obvious roof. Clip the fixed pin and take er' to the summit via sustained climbing on the best the canyon has to offer.

Location 

The looker's right most route on the wall. Look for the fixed pin and obvious line of ascent above the roof on the right side of the formation.

Protection 

Standard canyon rack


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By IJMayer
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 8, 2014

The climbing up to the roof on the arete is great! A little loose and protected with some small nuts (definitely a theme on this route). One big move through the roof, and a tough move or two immediately after. Then continue up on funky gallatin canyon cracks to top. I placed a directional and belayed off the bolts to the left. Rapped from bolts with rings. Great route! Sunny in the afternoon
By Skyler Mavor
Jun 6, 2017

The route starts with a rightward traverse off the ledge to the arete (it's wise to anchor the belayer). A small saw and pruning shears could work some wonders here. The small trees at the belay stance effectively obsure the belayer's view of the climber higher up. A few minutes of community service by the next folks to venture this way would be much appreciated!

Don't worry too much about the 5'10" height disadvantage described by the Dockins guide - I'm a few inches shorter than that and was able to make the reach.
By CCChanceR Ronemus
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 12, 2017

Or you can start at the base of the arete with a bit of run out 5.7. Makes the line a bit more asthetic, more rope out for the crux, and a comfier belay spot! Great route either way. Also, I'm just shy of 5'8" and could hit the big move.

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