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South Peak - West Face
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Front C T 
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Gunsight to South Peak T 
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West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

Gunsight to South Peak 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Paul Bradt, Don Hubbard, Sam Moore
Page Views: 26,497
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Feb 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (165)
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Matt Brainard climbing Gunsight to South Peak

Description 

Classic. From Gunsight Notch, head up the arete towards the South Peak, moving onto airy but easy ground on the west face. Belay after gaining the summit ridge. The second "pitch" is the summit ridge to the summit block.

Location 

Start at the Gunsight Notch. You can climb Banana and Debbie, scramble up ledges on the west side, or take the trail up the east side to Upper Broadway and scramble a short 5.0 to gain the notch. To descend use the standard South Peak rappel routes.

Protection 

Standard Seneca rack, eats passive pro.


Photos of Gunsight to South Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P4 traverse
P4 traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing the summit ridge on Gunsight to South P...
Traversing the summit ridge on Gunsight to South P...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1, Gunsight to South Peak
BETA PHOTO: P1, Gunsight to South Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: About to start on the traverse.
About to start on the traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: lovely traverse
lovely traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun on Gunsight to South Peak
Having fun on Gunsight to South Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: First summit of Seneca
First summit of Seneca
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of Debbie.
View from the top of Debbie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing in a different season.
Traversing in a different season.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Gunsight to South Peak from the top ...
Looking up at Gunsight to South Peak from the top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the first pitch (view from belay - note,...
Following the first pitch (view from belay - note,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up the first pitch.
Midway up the first pitch.

Comments on Gunsight to South Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Nov 14, 2012

Super classic climb with great exposure and good pro. You'll encounter a real old pin with red cord about 20ft from the summit, most build belay here in fractured blocks which seem pretty solid. Steep, classic, fun and easy!
By John Ely
From: DC
Nov 20, 2012

This has got to be one of the best 5.3s on the east coast, if not in North America as a whole.
By Dan Ecker
From: Annapolis
Oct 12, 2015

To belay from the bolts at the top do this...
1-clip the bolts and sling with a 48 inch runner
2-flip the runner over the block(towards the town)
3-Use another runner/cordelette to bring the master point lower so you can stand on the block with your back to the town and be facing east
By BrianWS
Oct 12, 2016

...or just keep it simple and build an anchor with your rope.
By NEKlimb
Jan 2, 2017

Great climb! Super fun and very exposed. This was our first time at the summit of Seneca and it is amazing!

Anyone want to weigh in with the best method of getting back to the ground? It took us a bit of exploring to find a way down. Any info would be appreciated.
By Derek Michael
Jun 23, 2017

I found it easiest to rap off the East Face. We down climbed to a small ledge just beneath the summit ridge on the East side. There's a rap station that'll take you to a ledge where Alcoa Presents starts (Alcoa ledge maybe?). On that ledge are two rap stations that'll easily get you down to the ground beneath Upper Broadway. Two ropes can get you down from the first station. A 70m with stretch would be cutting it really close. We opted to do two rappels with my 70m just incase.

As for getting to the notch, Banana and Debbie kinda suck, but are class 5 pitches at least. Upper Broadway and the 5.0 pitch on the East Side spice it up a bit.
By Wendy L
Jul 7, 2017

Attempted on July 7, was unable to climb because of a bee's nest at the base of the 1st pitch.

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