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Dopeman T 
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Guns of Navarone 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jonny Wilson, Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee, April 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on May 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Setting the key heel hook. Avoid the right arete f...


You can go to the left a bit and clip the first bolt before you start climbing. The climb starts with your left hand on a good sidepull and your right hand way out right on the arete. Do a move or two to get up to the nice horizontal jug. Clip the second bolt from there. Do a heel hook and make a move out to the right arete. There is a good undercling just over the arete that you can't really see while you're climbing. Grab the undercling, get your feet up, and clip the third bolt. The redpoint crux follows. Use slopey holds to kind of mantel up and move right onto the west face of the Ska Block. Make a move or two and clip the last bolt on Ruder Than You.

Be careful on this climb at two parts: when you're about to clip the third bolt (a fall with slack out means that you might slam into the jagged rock thing that juts out at the bottom) and after moving around the arete onto the west side of the formation. A fall there before you clip might also get you close to the jagged rock (although I fell there a couple times and missed it). We'll add another bolt after the third if people deem it necessary.


On the steep north side of the Ska Block.


3 bolts on the steep (north) side, 1 bolt on the slabby (west) side. Shares anchors with Ruder Than You. There is a belay bolt.

Photos of Guns of Navarone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan getting started. The climb is steeper than...
Tristan getting started. The climb is steeper than...

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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
May 5, 2008

The steep part of this route climbs like a boulder problem. The moves are awesome. It's not very often that a heel hook is critical beta. The rock is stellar. It's just a pity that the route is so short. Oh well. Still worth climbing. If you avoid the undercling on the right, just around the arete, and use more holds on the left side of the face, the climbing is probably closer to 5.12.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The moves without the right arete are pretty dang tough!
By Darren Knezek
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

What a cool line! Some extremely fun movement, every move was super unique with some crazy deadpoints and dynamics. I stayed on the steep face the entire way without using the arete and it didn't feel any more difficult. The third clip was very committing, but doable. Good job guys! A good line to get on in the summer as it's north facing and shady, if you get there in the morning you can warm up on the west-facing routes before they go into the sun.

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