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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: tetonalpinist on Sep 30, 2008

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Belay station 1


Follow the prominent right facing corner system through liebacks, off widths, flakes and over a roof. Crux is a 5.8 roof 10 feet over your last good piece.


Park at the first parking area on your right as you enter Sinks Canyon. Look up at the wall and find the REALLY prominent corner system.


Trad gear. There is a two bolt belay 150 feet up. and two bolts at the top.

Photos of Gunky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Gunky.  Super nice sandstone, great moves. ...
Top of Gunky. Super nice sandstone, great moves. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Red line is the route. Badly drawn X's are the bel...
BETA PHOTO: Red line is the route. Badly drawn X's are the bel...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2016
By Tom Rangitsch
From: Lander, WY
Sep 30, 2008

I don't think Gunky is PG13. It has good gear the whole way if I remember correctly. The route is a bit sandy, but safe. Don't be detoured as the route is really worth doing and a fun outing.
By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 10, 2009

Bomber medium stopper over the roof. Place it before going over. You don't even have to see it, just drop it in, tug it, and go.
By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Aug 25, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tom's right. I did it learning how to lead. Placements were solid and not hard to find.
By Kyle Williams
Dec 18, 2009

Excellent route that can be lead with all passive gear. A selection of medium to large hexes, a set of nuts, and some tri-cams should prepare the leader well. Worth the trip.
By pheindel Heindel
Jan 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not PG13, placements are plentiful and solid
By Dapper Dan Rogers
From: Driggs, ID
May 2, 2012

The roof stopper beta is spot on! Seemed like good pro the whole way up.
By Sagar Gondalia
From: Golden
Oct 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I echo this not being PG13. Great gear the whole way. Great varied climbing.
By matt j hartman
From: Leavenworth WA
Mar 2, 2013

paul rachele must be light duty.
By monkeyvanya
From: Denver, CO
Sep 3, 2014

The sandy, pocketed slab below the starting ledge goes at about 5.7R and is rather fun too
By roy-roygers-mcfreely
Jun 15, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Amazing variety and exposure. That roof move everyone talks about was the highlight of the route for me! I would totally give this 4 stars...if the 2nd pitch was anywhere near as good as the first, but it's kind of silly, way too short, and probably goes at 5.6 or so.

Note: The first set of bolts you come to are rappel anchors, if you keep climbing the hand crack at this point, you will find some BOMBER chains on a ledge that you could walk around unroped on. Belay from these if you want a little more comfort. I could have comfortably reached the chains with my 70m rope, I'm not sure if a 60m would work or not.

That said, I didn't know that and belayed from the rappel anchors, and it wasn't bad or uncomfortable. You can watch your follower from here for about 80% of the climb :)

A rack of singles from finger pieces up to a C4 #4 should suffice. A medium-large stopper will protect the roof. I used the largest Wild Country Superlight Offset Rock (It's silver colored).
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 3, 2016

The first set of anchors allows a good view of follower up most of the first pitch and allows decent with a single 60. Also makes the second pitch longer and more interesting. Walking off from the top is also an option. Bechtel guide is sorely lacking in rappel length info for multi-pitch routes on the Sinks sandstone.

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