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Shanty Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 
Bidonville T 
Breadline S 
Climber's Yodel S 
Corktown T 
Flying Friends T,TR 
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 
Gripe of Wrath S 
Gunky Route T 
Life and Debt T,TR 
Little Gem Diner T,TR 
Mean Low Blues T 
Pug Love T 
Railroad Dickie S 
River View TR 
Rocinha T,TR 
Shanty Girl T 
Shantyclear T,TR 
Shantytown T 
Sleep Walk T 
Son of Circuitous Shit T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Soweto T 
Swampoodle S 
Time Trials T 
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 

Gunky Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Late 1990s
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Dec 14, 2012

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Description 

Climb up the inside corner facing left, moving out onto the face, up to another left-facing corner above an overhang. Make a reachy move to circumvent the OH, then traverse right 20' to another left-facing corner. Climb up this a ways, break out right, and climb through a final overhang to reach the top.

Location 

Same as Shantytown: the left-facing corner below roofs, about 100 yards downhill of the main buttress.

Protection 

The blokes that bolted Shantytown bolted right through the crux of this route. Mildly annoying, but the pro there is now bomber if you use the bolts. For the purist, find gear a bit higher up the left-facing corner (nuts or tiny cams), and use a long sling.
A standard rack deals with the rest, and there are plenty of opportunities for using it along the way.
One could use the anchors of one of the nearby routes; just inspect them for damage before trusting them.


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