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Gunks West 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Thom Scheuer, April 1984
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Apr 6, 2007

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Daniel Schuerch not quite gaining the crack.


Clip the bolt from the boulder and make a strenuous move to gain the crack. Follow the crack up and up. I thought it was sandbagged for a 5.10b.


Descent: once on top head left to Leaping Leana's Bolted rap anchors.


1 bolt, pro to 2", gear anchor. Use Leaping Leana's bolted rap anchors to descend.

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By C Miller
From: CA
Apr 6, 2007

The single bolt at the start has been replaced and is 3/8".
By Adam Kimmerly
Mar 24, 2008

The crux is the start and feels stout for 10b. It's really tricky to get situated on the obvious slopey foothold at the start - it's too high to just rock over onto it, there are no decent hand holds, and the lower foot I had to use to step up is pretty thin.

Once there, the moves past the bolt aren't as bad, but the potential for a nasty ankle-breaking fall is high as you're pulling into the stance where you're able to place your first piece of gear. Might be worth it to use just a single 'biner on the bolt rather than a draw to shorten the fall as much as possible.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 24, 2008

The route as described (starting off the boulder) consists of all of 5 feet of climbing. You might as well start from the ground and climb the 'chimney' between the boulder and the main wall and triple the route length.

Concerning the gear beta: A single sling. Optional 4” for the chimney, and option single medium piece (green or red Camalot) for after the friction, it’s 4th class after that. Rap station at top.

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