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Gunks: Perfect Tens
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Apr 10, 2012
Wondering if we can come up with a list of "perfect tens" at the Gunks. My guess is that this list stacks up favorably with any other crag in the country. Let's start:

1. Erect Direction: a powerful line pumps through brilliant white rock on improbably outstanding holds.

2. Fat City: just gotta love walking past the shale bank on Undercliff Road looking out at the Nears and thinking "I climbed that."

3. Double-issima: Big jugs and wild rides. Positive holds and positive gear the whole way...and it keeps going! Horizontals like these only grow here. Don't miss the third pitch, it's a spanking after the crux.

4. Transcontinental Nailway: a scary start keeps the rabble away, a big roof is the price of entry, then super cool moves and a little runout top out caps this outstanding single pitch route.

5. Birdcage: A little bit of everything - stemming, jamming, traversing, and (of course) a roof.

6. Tough Shift: a great finger crack start, a huge reach left, and a yikes runout to the final roof.

7. Mother's Day Party: two cruxes - one fingery and the other powerful! Safe, but you'll go a bit above gear at numerous times on this climb.

8. Face to Face: a real multi-pitch treat with a long easy first pitch, a short and hard hand traverse on p. 2, and a third pitch for the ages.

9. Interstice: lots of climbing on this overlooked Mac Wall route. Interesting moves demand precise footwork and a calm head all the way through the final finger tip traverse.

10. Feast of Fools: Who hasn't climbed Limelight and saw the corner to their right and though "someday." When it is that day, this is as athletic, pumpy, and committing as it gets. The first pitch roof gets the glory, but the second pitch has difficult face climbing and (if dry) the the pitch offers up uncharacteristically steep 5.6 to the top.

Honorable mention: Simple Suff. This route climbs too much like granite for me to include it on a Gunks list, but this sustained corner is sure to offer a workout.
lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Joined Apr 1, 2009
175 points
Apr 10, 2012
Face to Face is the only climb on the list that ive climbed so far, but it is probably the nicest 5.10 that Ive ever climbed. Ksween
From Wakefield, RI
Joined Jul 22, 2011
15 points
Apr 10, 2012
Falled on account of strain maybe? Scott Sinner
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Joined Apr 18, 2011
30 points
Apr 10, 2012
Falled for sure as one great long pitch. Great route.

I would definely add Graveyard Shift. Probably the best pitch on the Mac Wall.

Not to mention fellow Mac Wall climbs Coex and Star Action. There's also The Winter, Frustraion Syndrome, Matinee, Nosedive, Wegetables, Time Eraser and plenty more.
David Stowe
Joined Mar 29, 2006
70 points
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012
entire double-issima in a single pitch is pretty hard to beat. probably gets my vote, although i haven't done every 10 in the gunks. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
885 points
Apr 11, 2012
Stirrup Trouble is great. JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Joined Nov 21, 2009
590 points
Apr 11, 2012
A few more to the list...some very memorable and some maybe perfect...in no particular order

Transcontinental Nailway
Ridicullissima
Nurse's Aid
Feast of Fools
Mother's Day Party
Nosedive
Retribution
Coexistence
Matinee
Try Again
Birdie Party

Can't wait until fall!
Jeff Mekolites
From HOTlanta, GA
Joined Jan 4, 2007
4,401 points
Apr 11, 2012
Ridic to High E in one! BAM! stredna
From PA
Joined Aug 27, 2008
45 points
Apr 11, 2012
1 - FCD - two quality pitches that test technique and nerves.

2 - ED - 3 quality pitches

3 - F2F - definite surprise awesome 10

4 - Transcon - keeps giving the whole pitch, some moves to keep you on your toes.

5 - stirrup trouble - see above

6 - welcome to the gunks - see above

7 - Matinee - two great pitches of 10 with pretty significantly different character - solid gunks route.

8 - Frustration Syndrome - really nice moves to start, a cool corner, and nice little roof.

9 - The Winter - nice bouldery start with some good technique to get through the corner.

10 - Wishbone - one of the gunks' sweetest roofs.
chris_vultaggio
From The Gunks
Joined Dec 22, 2008
345 points
Apr 11, 2012
I forgot about Stannards Roof. That one is pretty darn fun. JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Joined Nov 21, 2009
590 points
Apr 12, 2012
ten thousand restless virgins ericcr
Joined Oct 15, 2009
20 points
Apr 14, 2012
"Resistance", "Co-Ex", "Feast of Fools", and "Double-issima" get my vote. Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
1,955 points
Apr 17, 2012
Welcome to the Gunks, Coexistence, and P38 get my vote. Erect Direction really wasn't anything special to me. Tyrel Fuller
From Denver, CO
Joined May 9, 2010
115 points
Apr 17, 2012
Tyrel Fuller wrote:
Welcome to the Gunks, Coexistence, and P38 get my vote. Erect Direction really wasn't anything special to me.


So, do u dislike multipitch? exposure? spectacular positions (insert jab here)? just wondering, b/c its easily in my top 5
stredna
From PA
Joined Aug 27, 2008
45 points
Apr 17, 2012
i always thought "star action" was a gunks classic... full out dyno on 5.10 trad?! s'always stuck w/ me...


oh, and feast of fools!
Jon O'Brien
From Nevada
Joined Apr 21, 2009
390 points
Apr 17, 2012
stredna wrote:
So, do u dislike multipitch? exposure? spectacular positions (insert jab here)? just wondering, b/c its easily in my top 5


No, the third pitch roof was rad, the rest of the climbing was awkward and unrewarding.
Tyrel Fuller
From Denver, CO
Joined May 9, 2010
115 points
Apr 17, 2012
How about P38 Adam Fernandez
From Matawan NJ
Joined Jul 18, 2011
105 points
Apr 17, 2012
Jon O'Brien wrote:
i always thought "star action" was a gunks classic... full out dyno on 5.10 trad?! s'always stuck w/ me... oh, and feast of fools!

I agree star action is a great climb, but full on dyno? The move over the bulge is pretty static off of the crimps above the horizontal. The move up and left is definitely committing though.
David Stowe
Joined Mar 29, 2006
70 points


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