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Gunks- Disco Death March....
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Feb 5, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: inner chi
I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station.
Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online.
cheers
Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jan 6, 2008
159 points
Feb 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Buenos Dias!
Chelsey870 wrote:
I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station. Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online. cheers



I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it.
big gear required...
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Feb 6, 2012
its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay. burlap submariner
Joined Sep 6, 2009
360 points
Feb 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: inner chi
I thought from looking at it that it would take bigger than a #6 which is why we backed out of trying it. But now that I know the higher up you plug the better, I can't wait to get on it
Thanks for the very helpful beta!
Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jan 6, 2008
159 points
Feb 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Buenos Dias!
burlap submariner wrote:
its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay.



But the shuffling knee-bar looks so cool...
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Aug 19, 2012
The video is exactly hoe we did it this weekend. The beta is good. I am less than 5 8 and I could not mange it with out getting way up into the horizontal. One knee bar for cam placement. My buddies nailed it. I had to get a little help around the corner for a while and then ended up laybacking the last section. I was promptly scolded for not using proper off-width technique, but oh well!

If you like this kind of climbing, do this!!! It was awesome.
ntableman
Joined Sep 24, 2011
56 points
Aug 20, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it. big gear required...
>


the last person i saw in a crack like that doing a knee jam ended up stuck and shat themself...... ;)
EFS
Joined Jul 25, 2012
47 points
Apr 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Amarillo Sunset, 5.11b, RRG
Can you get away with a BD 6 and a 5 on this? Matt Rhodin
From Syracuse, NY
Joined Sep 10, 2014
75 points
Apr 13, 2016
Matt Rhodin wrote:
Can you get away with a BD 6 and a 5 on this?


Yes, but the 5 won't fit until the end of the traverse. It's nicer to have two 6's so you can leave one near the start, then shuffle the other one along.
Christian Fracchia
Joined Apr 18, 2010
67 points
Apr 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Amarillo Sunset, 5.11b, RRG
Cool thanks. Now begins the search for a second #6 Matt Rhodin
From Syracuse, NY
Joined Sep 10, 2014
75 points
Apr 13, 2016
Matt Rhodin wrote:
Cool thanks. Now begins the search for a second #6


are you local? You can borrow mine physicsfrac @ gmail

Just to let you know the crux is not getting the second #6 though :)
Christian Fracchia
Joined Apr 18, 2010
67 points
Apr 13, 2016
I sent this last weekend so I can assure you that you want a second #6 cam.. You can get a good cam at the start and then the end of the traverse.. YOu may be able to reach a #5 placement form the end of the travers but it's debatable.. In the middle of the travers the crack is too large to get a #6 where you could reach. Reaching the good #6 at the start from the end would also be really hard. The travers wasn't super hard but it was by now means a giveaway and it felt like it wouldn't be that hard to pop off of it.

Get two 6's.. and send that shit! It's wicked fun though I almost puked at the top...
crakatoa
From Boulder,Co
Joined May 5, 2014
31 points
Apr 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Amarillo Sunset, 5.11b, RRG
Christian Fracchia wrote:
are you local? You can borrow mine physicsfrac @ gmail Just to let you know the crux is not getting the second #6 though :)


I'm coming from Syracuse. I'll shoot you an email.
Matt Rhodin
From Syracuse, NY
Joined Sep 10, 2014
75 points
Apr 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Amarillo Sunset, 5.11b, RRG
crakatoa wrote:
I sent this last weekend so I can assure you that you want a second #6 cam.. You can get a good cam at the start and then the end of the traverse.. YOu may be able to reach a #5 placement form the end of the travers but it's debatable.. In the middle of the travers the crack is too large to get a #6 where you could reach. Reaching the good #6 at the start from the end would also be really hard. The travers wasn't super hard but it was by now means a giveaway and it felt like it wouldn't be that hard to pop off of it. Get two 6's.. and send that shit! It's wicked fun though I almost puked at the top...


Nice! And thanks for the beta. I'm stoked to get on it.
Matt Rhodin
From Syracuse, NY
Joined Sep 10, 2014
75 points
Apr 13, 2016
Matt Rhodin wrote:
Nice! And thanks for the beta. I'm stoked to get on it.



I should mention I'm 5'6" soooo if your taller you could sink the cam deep in the crack where it will fit better :( #shortpeopleproblems

Let us know how the climb goes on monday
crakatoa
From Boulder,Co
Joined May 5, 2014
31 points
Apr 13, 2016
Is everyone clear about the suitability of these BD cams, old style vs new? A new 6 is just a fraction of an inch larger than the pre-thumb loop 5. AFAIK there are no current cams equivalent to the old 6. Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,617 points
Apr 13, 2016
To clarify I was using new style #6's crakatoa
From Boulder,Co
Joined May 5, 2014
31 points
Apr 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Amarillo Sunset, 5.11b, RRG
Coming in at 6' 2" I had no issues bumping the cams high into the crack on the traverse. For me, the traverse felt around 5.7. Really nice foot holds all the way out to the arete. But once I got situated and tried to move up in the offwidth, I got shut down. I took a couple short falls and then just down climbed and cleaned on my way. Definitely need to refine that offwidth technique! I tried to chicken wing up but it didn't work out too well. Looking back I wish I tried some different methods, but oh well! I'll get back at it sooner or later. Matt Rhodin
From Syracuse, NY
Joined Sep 10, 2014
75 points
Apr 28, 2016
you tall bastard.. I'm only 5'6" so I can barley get my fingers on the underling from the foot rail.. I had the smear my feet high and underling the last 5 feet tot he arête..

Keep trying.. the pro is super solid on the O.W section.. just keep trying to get parts to stick in till it works ..
crakatoa
From Boulder,Co
Joined May 5, 2014
31 points
Apr 28, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: BD Fuel
Gunkiemike wrote:
Is everyone clear about the suitability of these BD cams, old style vs new? A new 6 is just a fraction of an inch larger than the pre-thumb loop 5. AFAIK there are no current cams equivalent to the old 6.

There never was an old #6
rocknice2
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
3,024 points


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