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Gunklandia Direct Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,998
Submitted By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010  with updates from JSH

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Gunklandia (reg. route) Marat just emerging out fr...

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>


The direct itself is a short (15 feet) set of unprotected face moves at 5.9 that ascend to and join the main GL crack at its first horizontal break.

It is not "some discontinuous finger cracks that lead up to GL proper" as previously described here -- that IS Gunklandia.

See COMMENT by Peter Lewis. Most "old" climbs were, and still are, purposefully "sandbagged" as explained in the current guidebook.


A great resource for this whole area is Acadia, by Jeff Butterfield.


Pretty unprotected

Photos of Gunklandia Direct Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: getting into the bottom of Gunklandia
getting into the bottom of Gunklandia
Rock Climbing Photo: Gunklandia (Reg Route) You can see the line, along...
BETA PHOTO: Gunklandia (Reg Route) You can see the line, along...

Comments on Gunklandia Direct Variation Add Comment
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By Dustin Lagoy
From: Southern CA
Jun 10, 2011

From my understanding (but I could be mistaken) this is the actual Gunklandia line. [Maine Admin. comment: Correct ! R.Hall] The 5.9 variation is to the first pitch and not here. IMO the short chimney is not as hard as 5.9. Also, using just the crack on the right side of the corner is Emigrant Crack (5.10b).
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

You're right, Dustin; this is the regular second pitch of Gunklandia (and at 5.7 is quite the nice little sandbag). No, it may not be 5.9, but it's close. The "Direct" variation is the discontinous finger crack about ten feet right of the normal start that goes for 20 feet before joining the regular route. It's barely 5.9 and kind of a two-move wonder.

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