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The Blade
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Gunboat Diplomacy  T 

Gunboat Diplomacy  

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013  with updates from IanPerry

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Follow the line up the center of the open book, le...

Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end.

The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so.

Location 

Once you finish the climb, build an anchor at the top and belay your partner up. Then walk off.

Protection 

The route is well protected with a standard trad rack. Like all climbs at Sugarloaf, there's no bolts.


Photos of Gunboat Diplomacy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the line up the center of the open book, le...
Follow the line up the center of the open book, le...

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