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Gun Club 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl, April 1989
Page Views: 2,966
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Dan Osman soloing Gun Club (5.12c), NRG Photo: Ja...

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This long face climb, just left of the big corner known as Super Crack, is a good introduction to NRG technical face climbing. Don't let the grade scare you off because none of the individual moves are any harder than 12a. But, they do add up and there are multiple cruxy sections. Bring your fancy footwork and strong fingers to reach the anchors on this one.

On a historical side note, Dan Osman soloed this route in 1991. The story goes that Dan worked the crux on a short leash never really dialing in the sequence perfectly. The next day, with friends and video cameras in tow, he set out to solo the climb. Maybe the sun drenched wall, maybe his nerves, or perhaps the reality and severity of such a serious solo got the best of him, and he began to verbally doubt himself, telling his buddies that he wasn't sure he wanted to go through with it. The crazy thing is that he was doing this while on the climb just below the crux, where a fall could be fatal. His friends not wanting to see Dan die, told him to not worry about it and come down. Dan kept hemming and hawing up there until he cut loose and hiked it to the top.

From what I've read, it sounds like one hell of an insane solo by one crazy, albeit, BOLD man. Rope up, and climb what Dan Osman was crazy enough to do without a safety line.


Thunder Buttress, just left of Super Crack.


10 bolts. Good options for cams to keep the runouts a bit more tame. Bolted anchor.

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By Pnelson
Nov 12, 2015

I personally think that the crux of this climb is quite a bit harder than a 12a move; definitely on par with about any other Endless Wall 5.12c crux. There are several good recovery spots, but this climb packs a bit more of a pump than a lot of others, too.

Some of the draws are hard to hang, and there is a pretty spicy runout one bolt above the crux that you can mellow out with a finger-sized cam. This is also really easy to TR or hang draws upon after doing Supercrack.
By BrianWS
Nov 12, 2015

Agreed. The crux on this climb is so far from 12a, it's not even funny. If you take the route directly (stay out of supercrack), the crux is a slabby v5 or harder move. However, if you choose to bypass the crux by cheating out right, the original description is correct - no individual moves are harder than 12-.
By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Nov 12, 2015

This is a route I've been wanting to get on sometime soon. So what's the deal with the line? Is it an eliminate? Or are there natural straight up features to climb? Can you clip the bolts from supercrack?
By BrianWS
Nov 12, 2015

The route runs very close to the supercrack corner up to the crux. Climbing the crack puts you a bit further from the bolts than you'd want to be, so I wouldn't really call it an eliminate.
You can lead supercrack and easily drop your draws on the face while lowering, if that answers your question.
By Joseph DeGaetano
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 13, 2015

Nah, you guys are crazy. 12-/V4 crux move to a bunch of 12- continuous climbing. The crux requires very little power. Get your skin to bite on those razors trust some non existent feet and pull up. Done deal. Yosemite 12- at best. Hell probably Yosemite 11+. The rest of the climbing is beautiful and the real highlight of the route. "It's not that bad."
By Pnelson
Nov 16, 2015

Yeah, the only thing that really draws away from this climb is the fact that you can traverse over to supercrack, and then back left to Gun Club as a way of completely avoiding the crux.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 16, 2015

Shut up Darlene. The only thing that takes away from this route is the fact that I just rap-freed it. Get on those dancing shoe and get on my level!
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Nov 17, 2015

Must be raining in Fayetteville.

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