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Gun Club

Gun Club Rock Climbing 


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Submitted By: nonya on Nov 21, 2006
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Description 

  • **This place is a pile.***

Do not climb here unless you live in the Vail Valley and are looking for winter bouldering. There are three dozen problems here and 4 are worthy. Better than plastic though...

The main area consist of 5 boulders each with at least 5 problems on each block.

Getting There 

From I-70, exit Minturn. Drive though downtown Minturn. Look for a left hand turn across the river to the town cemetery. Drive past the parking for the Cemetery Blocks boulder problems and continue south on a bumpy dirt road towards the shooting range. After 5 minutes traveling south, a large boulder, surrounded aspen, 100 yards from the road, comes into view (Shade Tree). Drive another few minutes until a squatty roof boulder (The Bunker) on the right side of the road.

Shade tree
The largest and the most obvious boulder: shrouded by aspen trees this massif is easy to spot on the east side of the dirt road. The lines are good and quite tall, Unfortunately of the 5 rocks in the Gun Club, this one is of the lowest quality. Could be good with traffic and cleaning. Could be good in time?
From north to south-
V2 Hueco Traverse - 25 feet of overhanging awkward jugs.
V2 The Wobbler* - Vertical face to a slabby top out. Grapple into the high balancy, slabby top out. With traffic and/or more cleaning would be 3 star problem.
V5 variation thin moves, tops out The Wobbler
V5 Choss Toss - awkward low start; big pull from bucket
VO Jacob's Ladder - Pocket to huecos
V1 Giant steps* - Big huecoed corner
V3 Squeeze - Seams to gaston, stem off opposing block for a contrived Yosemite-style topout
East face
V3 Back Breaker* - On the back (east) side. Squeeze between the trees, campus the blocks and up.

Original Rock
Good rock on all sides qualify this the Gun Club's premier boulder. Slightly overhang south face is the perfect winter hang. I don't know the history these problems, but I am sure this rock has been bouldered at for decades. Located between Shade Tree and The Bunker.
V2 Nose* - Lieback the feature
V1 Variation* - Start in horizontal crack; left to pocket, right to corner.
V1 Original Route** - Climb the obvious line of flat jugs up the center of the cool concave face. Lots of good eliminates can be had. Cool mellow wall.
V1 Southwest Corner
V2 Northwest Corner*

The Road to Nowhere
These traverses will keep you strong. 20 yards SE of Original Rock
V4 Road to Nowhere* Traverse up the entire corner. Start just right of the northwest corner. Traverse the lip of the boulder all the way to the top. 25 feet of good training.
V1 Northeast Corner
V3 Nine Mill* - Center of the north face. Jug to flake exit. One move wonder.
V5 Dull pain* - Crimps to crimps on the overhanging corner
V3 Thorberg Left* - traverse opposit direction of the V4.

Cat Corner
This is tucked back aways deeper in the woods and talus; home to few decent problems. Walk NE from the Road to Nowhere Rock.
V1 Pebble surf* - Problem on the left side of corner
V3 Double Huck** - Problem on the right side of corner
V4 Sandman* - Obvious edges to lip
V4 Germ Warfare - Gritty pockets

The Bunker
This squatty cave is on the right-hand side to the road, if you drive the shoot range, you've gone too far. The bunker is just a few feet off the dirt road, on the west side. This squatty cave delivers up some surprisingly fun, powerful moves on good rock. A bunch of two-move wonders.
V2 Left Side
V4 RPG* - one move wonder. Start on crappy holds with heal on feature, pull left.
V3 Pocket de la Resistance** - The obvious crimps to the pocket.
V3 Variation* - Lip bucket left to pockets
V4 Stiff Lip* - Power left across the length of the roof and finish up RPG. Longest problem.

The Lone Gunman
The last large rock before reaching the shooting range. This choss monster is 60 yards south of the bunker. This rock is in pretty bad shape.
East face
V2 The Gunman* - Follow the crack
V0 Gunner's Dream - Flat jugs to crack and corner for exit
West face
V1 Trigger Finger* - Dirty feet for first two moves but cleans up nicely to finish on the obvious gashes and cracks in quality rock.

Still want more?

The Muskets
This is the first group of boulders as you drive in. There are three rocks to climb on in this sea of unclimbable stone. At the top outcropping is a rectangular block with a decent-looking corner. Expect mediocrity.

Rock 1
V1 Corner* - climb the most obvious line.

Rock 2
V3 Located on the next block downhill from previous boulder. Start right of the bowl and go right to fin and up to tough finish.
V1 Start left side of bowl, to pebble and up. Short, decent rock.

Rock 3
VO Crappy warmup. This is the first rock when approaching to the Corner problem; climb the obvious left-facing feature.

Climbing Season

For the Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Cliff area.

Weather station 3.9 miles from here


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