REI Community
(g) Morning Glory Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 Gallon Buckets S 
Anonymity S 
Cat Scan S 
Churning in the Ozone S 
Churning In The Sky S 
Churning in the Wake S 
Cool Ranch Flavor S 
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension  S 
Da Kine Corner S 
Dandy Line S 
Doritos S 
Energy Crisis S 
Exile On Main Street S 
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 
Gumby S 
Kings of Rap S 
Light on the Path S 
Lion Zion S 
Lion's Chair T 
Lion's Jaw T 
Magic Light S 
Magic Light Start S 
Main Line S 
Morning Sky S 
Nacho Cheese S 
Nine Gallon Buckets S 
Outsiders, The S 
Overboard S 
Oxygen S 
Ozone Hole S 
Sign of the Times S 
Sketch Pad S 
Taco Chips S 
Tammy Baker's Face S 
Vicious Fish S 
Waste Case S 
Zebra Direct S 
Zebra Seam S 
Zion T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Watts & Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Page Views: 5,334
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (124)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbed a route that matches the description for &...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


What's this? Another fun moderate face climb on the Morning Glory wall? Say it ain't so!

This route starts about 30 feet to the left of the dihedral near Zebra Direct and Light on the Path. Good face climbing on the bottom leads to juggy huecos at the top.


4 bolts and a bolted anchor

Photos of Gumby Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gumby?

Comments on Gumby Add Comment
Show which comments
By ScottH
Jan 31, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is an excellent variation to this climb that is the best single pitch climb I have done on the Morning Glory wall (the variation may have a name and should be listed as a different route?). After reaching the giant huecos, find a good stance and rest your arms. Instead of following the huecos up and right to end at the P1 Zebra-Zion anchors (5.easy), continue straight up on pocketed and crimpy face climbing to a set of bolted anchors. This is pumpy and delicate climbing that is very similar in character to the first part of Gumby. Done this way I would call the route 10b/c.
By KateC
Oct 27, 2008

Perhaps the route has had some equipment changes in the two years since the description was posted? There were more like 7 bolts on this line, with the anchors well near 75 feet above the ground (not 40). The top three bolts linked thin, crimpy, slabby, beautifully delicate climbing with the juggy-monkey heuco-pulling below. Fun!!
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 30, 2009

The extension refered to in the comments above is called Morning Sky and is the natural line.

Gumby bails right on huge jugs to the Zebra Direct anchor to avoid a second crimpy crux higher on the slab.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Feb 4, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

It's a good idea to avoid this route when another party is climbing Zion. I was nearly killed by rockfall belaying my partner as he linked Gumby and P2 of Zion.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Apr 28, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Seems to me the bottom of the climb gets a lot of traffic and has worn down a bit, it's harder than 5.10b now.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About