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Gumby Wall

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Chumming for Gumbies S 
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Gumby Wall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 32.40105, -110.69686 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,073
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt P on Feb 13, 2006  with updates from Carlos Murphy
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BETA PHOTO: self-made topo of Gumby Wall

Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A sunny,exposed SW facing crag with very good quality rock. Good choice for a first time lead. Most routes are well bolted.

Getting There 

Just after mile post 18 park at a pullout on the left (south) side of the road. Walk down the road (towards Tucson) for a short distance until you see an "Ice May Be Present" sign. Follow a faint trail up a small gully where the rock meets the road. A steep, somewhat awkward ascent brings you to the base of the crag. Traverse left and through a gap in the rocks to find the routes. Approach time 5-10 mins.

Climbing Season

For the 6 - Mid-Mountain area.

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Gumby Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian about 1/3 of the way up Gumbuttress

Gumbuttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Gumby Wall
Goes past big flake/chickenhead things (watch your rope) and up the wall right of The Gumby Sanction. Upper wall looks like 5.9 until you get there. Easier than it appears. Shares chains with Gumby Sanction....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Gumby Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gumby Wall is the lower left part of this formatio...
Gumby Wall is the lower left part of this formatio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tasha on "The Gumby Sanction" - Christma...
Tasha on "The Gumby Sanction" - Christma...
Rock Climbing Photo: left side of Gumby Wall
left side of Gumby Wall

Comments on Gumby Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2007
The rock here is bullet hard, and the holds are different from most Lemmon crags, i.e. sharply incut. Climbing these routes in stiff-soled hiking boots will add a level of interest, esp. on the upper section of GumButtress.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 12, 2007
Yes. Or at least as far as I know. The Coronado National Forest website says all of Barnum Rock, and the Gumby Wall is part of Barnum Rock. Maybe someone should add the "access issues" note to this area.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 13, 2007
before attempting the gumby wall all climbers are required to view this short video:
By JmH
From: Arizona
Nov 18, 2007
Gumby is a baaaaad man!
By eddy
Nov 12, 2008
There's a route that climbs the East facing wall to the right of Gumbuttress; at least there are four bolts on the upper section of this wall. Does anyone have information about this route?
By Sam Thomps
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 4, 2015
Did this as a first time lead and it was pretty on point for that purpose. Pretty easy wall for the most part, tons of bolts, and the easiest route, Twisted Gumby, has a nice ledge to sit on and relax at the anchor to practice clearing gear and setting up your rappel. Belay area is nicely cleared. A boulder and some tall bushes/trees about 20 feet away for off rotation people to get some shade (a great spot to set up a hammock too). Relatively easy approach, though what counts as a trail was a bit hard to find.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 4, 2015
Kevin Carmichael and Scott McNamara paid for the hardware on these routes so that novice climbers could get on the sharp end. I don't think there is a better beginning leader wall.
By Steve Lenhardt
Apr 9, 2017
Parking and approach advice. You can also park right at and near the cut that leads up to the Gumby Wall. If you follow the directions for Barnum Rock or even Gumby wall in the book or even the main Gumby wall directions here, you will not end up at gumby wall, but rather Barnum Rock. You will have to go back down and around to get to gumby rock. So hike further back down the road and enter WELL BELOW the Ice sign, just after the main rock wall reaches the road. (learned this the hard way) The hike is pretty loose and steep with a barely visible path. When you get to the actual rock, you have to scramble up left to the actual base of the Gumby Wall. And climbs are great but stiff. If you are new to leading and are expecting the 5.5 to be super easy or the 5.6 to be an easy 5.6, take caution. While the majority of each climb is accurate, I rate the top of each climb a grade or two higher. 5.5=5.6/5.7 5.6=5.7/5.8 etc.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 10, 2017
Okay Kids, there are photos of the Gumby Wall in SQ III on pages 345 and 349.
These are taken from the highway you drive up. There is a black and white overhead showing you where Gumby wall is on Barnum Rock, it is on page 348. If you cannot find this cliff perhaps you should hire a guide. It boggles my mind at the inability of people to find a cliff they can look at and walk to! I guess some people have so little experience navigating outside this one is a real puzzler! Or they don't actually look at the book or the pictures.

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