Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route
||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1500', Grade III
|Original: ||M5 Steep Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Possibly Rob Smith and Ben Collett, September 2014|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Early Fall|
|Page Views: ||573|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Collett on Sep 12, 2014|
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This is a good route to do when early season over-enthusiasm gets the best of you. You get to work out the legs on some steep snow and moderate mixed climbing until the last 300 feet where things get a bit more challenging.
Climb Lamb's Slide past Zumie's Thumb, and head up the gully to the left of the thumb. If your timing is right, you'll find some steep neve and some easy mixed climbing. At the top of the snow, there is a rock pillar with chimney systems on both sides. Climb into the left chimney system and follow it loosely for 180 feet to a nice belay on its left side below a huge chockstone. Get back in the chimney system, and take it to the top past a chockstone tunnel and a hard sequence of moves getting into a squeeze chimney.
A light rock rack.
Climbing into one of the mixed steps above Lamb's ...
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