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Gulley No.1 Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cody's Lament T 
Coin de la Souris T 
First Shot S 
Ground Zero T 
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 
Land Ahoy T 
Lead Poisoning  T 
Life By the Tracks T 
Mice & Men T 
Mouseketeers T 
Part the Sea T 
Rodent Arete T 
Superior Races, The T 

Gulley No.1 Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Aug 5, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Select Climbs on Butress # 1


Have you just finished one of the slab routes on Willard's Main Slab and it's too early to quit, but too late to do another 4-pitch route-and-rap? From the tracks at the base of "Cinema", walk south along the RR tracks about 5 min to the path up to Number 1 Buttress and tag one or two of the routes there! (Walking south keep an eye out for the cairn on the right; if you miss it you'll come to the 8" drain-ditch through the tracks about 30-40 RR ties south (beyond) the cairn and path.)

NOTE on SORTING ROUTES- The normal "path" from the RR tracks ends at the far right of the buttress at the climb "First Shot", so in walking along the base the climbs are encountered in a furthest-RIGHT-to-LEFT order.

A somewhat steep, but short approach from the RR tracks rewards the climber with an interesting cliff. Quite different from the slab routes on the main slab of Willard. Routes are moderate and some fairly well protected. If desired, the "R" and "X" routes (or at least their most interesting portions) can be TR'd (after leading one of the 5.6 - 5.7 routes) with a little ingenuity, 2 ropes and long slings.

At present not all the routes on this buttress are listed. Until these are added to this site, see the long-out-of-print 2nd edition (not the 3rd, which covers only the Eastern White Mts.) of Ed Webster's White Mt. Guide for more info.

Getting There 

Park on Rt 302 at a gravel pullout (room for a 1/2 dozen cars) on the left side (going "up-notch" from Bartlett) off the road about a half mile above the Willey Slide pullout (coming from the south/east) or 1 1/2 miles below the AMC's Highland house. (From the north/west). Coming from the South/East this pull-out is JUST before the Saco Rivers crosses underneath Rt 302, and just beyond where 302 crosses over a smaller stream. A rocky logging-road starts from the rear of the parking, but quickly turns into a trail. Hike up the well-cairned trail to the actual "Hattie's Garden". (about 10-15 min and quicker than walking in the RR tracks from the Notch).

Now walk about 1 or 2 minutes "Up-Tracks" (towards the cliff) to the first little (8-inch) drainage channel through the tracks. Go about 30-40 more RR ties, and look for a cairn and steep climber's path up to the base. Keep your eyes open for the path (once really indistinct, now getting much better) and occasional flagging tape.

Upon reaching the rock (10 +/- min), after another 30-40 ft of "up" along the base you come to a nice, large flat rock which is just a few feet left of the start of "First Shot" and a few feet right of "Hattie's Garden"(the climb). To get to "Part the Sea" Drop down 35-40 ft right to a low point, then up 25-30 ft to the obviously-just-cleaned "Part-the-Sea" (...of lichen).

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gulley No.1 Buttress:
Part the Sea   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   
First Shot   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 95'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Featured Route For Gulley No.1 Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody's Lament - about 1/2 way up. Note the route i...

Cody's Lament 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a New Hampshire : WM: Crawford Notch : ... : Gulley No.1 Buttress
Mike Cody (not Joe Cote) must have lamented missing this line. (?) ...or maybe not with the "X-ish" rating! The 2 stars assumes doing the route with a TR anchor.(see below) If you are not a fan of leading 5.5-5.6X, it is possible to move 15-20 ft left of the "First Shot" anchors and get gear into a left-facing corner/flake to set a "directional", and then lower down with a 70 M rope, thus TR'@SEMI...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Gulley No.1 Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No.1 Buttress, and Hidden Buttress (Up and left)
BETA PHOTO: No.1 Buttress, and Hidden Buttress (Up and left)
Rock Climbing Photo: The 8" drainage ditch through the tracks. Thi...
BETA PHOTO: The 8" drainage ditch through the tracks. Thi...

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