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Gull Whackers T 
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Gull Whackers 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Bracksieck & Cathy Mallow, 1980? Stettner? Ellingwood? Ormes?
Season: when you've done the rest
Page Views: 2,253
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: The line(s).

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  • Description 

    Well, you could call this Older Dihedral...but it isn't in Rossiter's nor either of the more recent Rolofson's guides, so what the 'eck? In the middle of the lower Animal World cliff is a large, right-facing dihedral capped with a chimney. That's the line. This is temporarily named for its easy acceptance of those British hexes...don't be offended if it is your route.

    Head up the obvious corner with some slippery feet to start. Of course, you will not only be prepared for gulls but, here in the Front Range, also pigeons and bats. About 40 feet up, you can choose to either continue up the chimney (less appealing) or angle right along a crack (best bit) to the 8th bolt of Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. Continue to its top. Rap.

    Note, there are still some loose flakes on the route. We didn't want to clean it with dogs and ladies below.

    Location 

    This lies between Joint Venture and Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. It starts up and...at least for this writeup...connects with Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation at its 8th bolt.

    Protection 

    Single set of cams to #3.5 Camalot with a few larger, gull whackers, 4 QDs.


    Photos of Gull Whackers Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the first half.
    On the first half.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Armin...no gulls.
    Armin...no gulls.

    Comments on Gull Whackers Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Apr 18, 2008
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    The crack was full of bird crap. Bushes at the top of the climb are annoying. Lots of loose blocks. Fun to use my hexcentrics, otherwise a bore.
    By George Bracksieck
    Jan 3, 2012

    I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did, and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos.
    By Jon Oulton
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 15, 2017

    Got about 1/2 of the way up this route last Sunday and ended up downclimbing because of all the loose blocks. There are more than a few toaster-sized blocks that will be easily knocked loose if pulled on or used as a foot-hold.

    It would be irresponsible to do this route if there are other parties. Make sure your belayer is attentive and has a helmet on.

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