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Guise and Gals 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling
Page Views: 1,861
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Feb 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: Who says there's no pro on the bottom of the route...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Guise and Gals is the first climb in the Romper Room Area. To get to the start, climb to the ledge that starts near the Lotta Balls area and traverses under the Alcohol Wall. The climb works up a shallow dihedral on the face behind a large boulder. The dihedral is somewhat smooth, but the friction is good and it protects well. At the top of the dihedral, step left, and continue up the corner to the anchors on the wall to the left. Rappel with a single rope.

Gear: Standard rack.

Photos of Guise and Gals Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Belayer's point of view
BETA PHOTO: Belayer's point of view
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on my belayer
Looking down on my belayer
Rock Climbing Photo: Katherine belaying under the boulder at the start ...
Katherine belaying under the boulder at the start ...

Comments on Guise and Gals Add Comment
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By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Not a bad route for learning trad climbers along with many at the Romper Room area!
By CalebSimpson
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Crappy protection at the start, also felt more like 5.6, it requires a crazy high step to get on the rock then awkward stances to start as well. All I could get in at the start was some micro cams (in sideways, I doubt they would have held). The crack at the start was thin and flaring.
By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Good fun, and I felt it protected very well from about 3-4m upwards. I'm getting back into leading trad after a very long break, and had no problems with this - so would say a good route for the new / returning leader.
By Micah Kurtz
From: Denver, Co
Oct 29, 2013

I wouldn't recommend this for a beginners lead. The first two pieces of pro I found in the first 15 feet were a small C3 and #3 C4 which were questionable at that. I found the beginning to be smooth and a little awkward, but it does get much easier once you turn the corner.
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
May 13, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Climbed this in March of 2011. Don't waste your time.
By Michelle Kemmer
From: Calabasas, CA
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I'm a beginning trad leader and I LOVED this route! That said...I recommend this for experienced beginners only and not total noobs. You've got to be good at placing pro - and a little creativity helps too.

Contrary to some of the other comments, I thought there was good pro on pretty much the whole route including the bottom (red tricam, people-it's a creative placement but it works). There are a couple of places you have to run it out a bit, but the climbing is easy. I thought the feet were totally solid the whole way and there was great stances the whole way for pro placement too. Yes the bottom was a little awkward, but I'm a total whiner when it comes to awkward climbs and I honestly didn't think it was that bad.

Overall, I think this a super fun route for an experienced beginner.

Oh and thanks to whoever bailed and left the #3 cam behind - I've added it to my booty collection.

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