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Guinness Gully 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 3 pitches, 850', Grade II
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 424
Submitted By: Nick Sweeney on Feb 23, 2016

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Lone Solo Climber on Guinness Gully Dec 17th 2015

Description 

After the short approach, you'll reach a short ice step before the first pitch - stop here and gear up. Solo the ice step and build a nice belay on bolts to the right.

Pitch 1: WI4, 30m.
Sometimes thin, but quite thick in Feb 2016. Choose your line and power up to a tree belay on the left. When your second reaches the top of the pitch, have them continue up the low angle ice and snow to build a belay for the next pitch.

Pitch 2: WI4, 20m.
We climbed a line on the left side from an ice screw belay in a nice ice cave. Tree belay to the left.

Pitch 3: WI4, 55m.
The money! Have your belayer stand out of the way and head up this long, sustained pitch. It looks like the easiest line was on the right in Feb 2016, but we climbed the left side which was solid WI4+. You can comfortably climb this pitch with 60m ropes as long as you have your belayer stand reasonably close to the base. There is a single bolt on the right hand side (often equalized with a V thread) for a belay/rappel anchor.

Descent: Rappel the route using the same anchors as you used on the way up. This route does get a lot of traffic, so it may be easier to walk off on a busy day. Please "improve this page" if you have walk off beta.

Location 

Make your way to the Field Service Road as for the other "beer" climbs on Mt. Dennis. Park at the pullout and note the signage warning of avalanche danger. Hike back along the road a small distance to some flagging and make the short but steep hike up.

Protection 

Ice screws and two 60m ropes. The last pitch is long and sustained, so consider a large rack of screws.


Photos of Guinness Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin starting up P2 from the belay cave.
Justin starting up P2 from the belay cave.
Rock Climbing Photo: Final pitch.  Nice work!
Final pitch. Nice work!
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin heading up P1.
Justin heading up P1.

Comments on Guinness Gully Add Comment
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By Vikram Sahney
Feb 12, 2017
rating: WI4

Here is a video climbing Guinness Gully from February 3rd, 2017.

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