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Guilty Pleasure 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on May 6, 2016

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Myself leading the FA of Guilty Pleasure. This rou...

Description 

This route was an old unfinished and unlisted project that went halfway up the wall and stopped short at a bail biner. The route has finally been continued and is excellent! The route follows some slightly spicy climbing on 5.9-5.10 terrain up to a very technical (but well protected) crux sequence on tiny crimps and a minuscule mono.

P1: 100' Climb "No Man's Land" to the second anchor.
P2: 100' Climb past 8 bolts of increasing difficulty up to a well protected 5.11 crux headwall.
P3: 80' Traverse back up and right through 5.9 stemming and over to a 4th class chossy ramp with two bolts.

Descent: Walk off or do two raps down the main wall. 60m rope needed.

Location 

Farthest left route. Climb No Man's Land to access.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 optional old bolts + Ram's horns anchor.


Photos of Guilty Pleasure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Guilty Pleasure, second pitch
Guilty Pleasure, second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Guilty Pleasure, second pitch
Guilty Pleasure, second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: What better position on the coast for a belay?
What better position on the coast for a belay?
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve feeling out the mono on Guilty Pleasure.
Steve feeling out the mono on Guilty Pleasure.
Rock Climbing Photo: Very small crimps on the crux of Guilty Pleasure
Very small crimps on the crux of Guilty Pleasure
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top of the second pitch.
Looking down from the top of the second pitch.

Comments on Guilty Pleasure Add Comment
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By Evan Wisheropp
May 19, 2016

There's a bit of a bit of a gap between bolts around the first mini-roof (5.8) due to a small section of non-boltable rock, if nervous, you could clip a old bolt off to the right with a 24" sling.

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