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Guilty As Charged 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,291
Submitted By: Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009  with updates from Lukas Wiborg

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opening move on Guilty as Charged...barefoot!

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Stick clip the first bolt before the big 5.9+ mantle move. Careful not to pull the lip off with your left hand, it's cracking! Once over the lip, follow 5th class up to ledge placing small gear on the way if you like. Cool 10d friction moves to the top. Trust your feet, this rock sticks!

Two bolt anchor

Location 

Directly right of the obvious offwidth in the middle of California Ridge. Climbing starts up and over a roof 6' off the deck.

Protection 

3 draws. small gear.


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By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jan 15, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The upper crux slab moves seemed very easy for a 10d (for my height at least, ~ 5'10") at Castle Rock. Climb this and then climb "Viscious Circles" (5.10c, Indian Rock, CRSP) and you'll see what I mean. Still, the top half was fun and balancy.

Also, this route will really annoy you if you are short (less than 5'4"?) because the bottom mantle will be next to impossible, and you won't be able to clip the 2nd bolt (which happens to protect the crux) from any sort of good stance.

Small gear won't do you any good on this route. If you are really feeling nervous, it may be possible to place a mid-size cam or two in the middle. But the climbing there really is 4th class and most leaders will be comfortable without gear.
By Julian Bobilev
Jan 26, 2014

Going straight up at the second bolt seemed 5.11+. Perhaps the crimpers broke? Granted you can go to either the left or the right to escape the crux. If you do so, however, you will miss on the best part of the climb: smearing your feet up on tiny nubs and indentions followed by an awesome mantel.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 26, 2014

The crux at the second bolt is not that bad if you mantel it. Going left or right is far easier, but avoids the original crux moves.
By FourT6and2
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 27, 2016

How is this a 10d? The ONLY actual "climb" part of this route i the first move, getting over the little mini roof to the first bolt. And once you figure out the beta, it's nothing more than a V1 bouldering move. THAT one move makes the route fun. But once you get past that first bolt, it's like climbing a staircase. Felt like a 5.4 to me. My friends and I just did the first few moves over and over after we climbed it as a warm up.

And we tried variations like going left/right/straight at various spots. I don't see how anybody thinks this is a 5.11...
By Dougie Fresch
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 3, 2016

The start is a lot easier than it looks. The best part is above the second bolt. You can dodge into the crack or out right to the obvious jugs but straight up is a two or three fun, balancy moves on tiny crimpers. I'd put that move in the 5.11+ or 5.12- category, but if you're comfortable on that, the rest of the climb will feel like a ladder.
By Ari G
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Really fun crux straight up at 2nd bolt. 5.10d seems about right -- slightly harder than the crux on Vicious Circles 5.10c.
By Sergey Shevelev
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 28, 2017

SF Bay area guidebook says that going straight up at the 2nd bolt is probably 5.12. Not sure how accurate is that, but it's definitely not a 10d if you go up directly. Going to the right is much easier than 10d (if you do this, the whole climb is no harder than 10a at most). The guidebook says that 10d is if you are avoiding the "5.12" part by going left, using the arete, but I haven't tried that.

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