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L to R R to L Alpha
Byron's Ladder S 
Dark Days T 
Gilded Lily S 
Guilted Willy TR 
Left Dihedral T 
Lilies of the Valley T 
T-Rect T,S 
Triceratops T,S 

Guilted Willy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Deb T?
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 14, 2010

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Deb around the crux.

Description 

This is a squeezed in TR line to the left of Gilded Lily that is not worth bolting but can be worth another lap up this clean slab.

Start as for Gilded Lily but traverse straight left at the first bolt to near the arete. Fire up just right of the arete. Find the crux on a rounded knob where you can use 2 fingers on the sole shared hold just above Gilded Lily's 3rd bolt. Stay left on good holds peering to the left on occasion. Head right to Gilded Lily's anchor at the top.

Starting this out on the west face would be quite desperate.

Yeah, it's a bit contrived since you could clip 4 of the bolts of Gilded Lily, but the position is nice along the arete.

Addendum: for the bold, this may be leadable clipping bolts 1, 3, 5, and 8 of Gilded Lily's bolts with some possible supplemental gear (especially on the upper half), but be solid.

Location 

This is just left of Gilded Lily.

Protection 

TR off Gilded Lily's anchor. Directionals are probably unnecessary.

Okay, for you Zen masters, you could clip bolts 1, 3, 5, 8 of Gilded Lily and throw in a sling or two and a marginal piece or two and lead this bugger with an R rating.


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