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Guillotine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: David Bruneau, Nick Brown, Axel O'Young
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: David Bruneau on Aug 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Guillotine 5.9

Description 

Excellent crack over the ocean with excellent pro in fine-grained rock. Some crack skills required, but face holds often ease the climbing.

The crack starts thin but soon widens to hand size and then wider. The sections where the crack closes off are bypassed using the adjacent finger cracks (crux). Once easy ground is reached, traverse left to the large ledge to avoid the obvious but very chossy overhanging chimney above. From the ledge, 25 feet of easy 5th class up the corner leads to the ledge at the top.

Location 

Over the ocean north of the other climbs. Access by scrambling through bushes about 50m south of the bunker at the top of the Beamer through a clearing in the trees. Set a rappel off a tree (35-40m) and rappel to a nice ledge 15 feet above the ocean.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3", doubles in hand size cams.
Tree anchor at the top, gear anchor at the bottom which takes many different sizes of cams and nuts.


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