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Guillotine 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C0

   
Type:  Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C0 [details]
FA: Bradley White (A.K.A. Honey Badger) Peter Jackson 10/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: bradley white on Nov 12, 2013

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Description 

Beginning is not bolted and has been top roped. its short distance of under cling and face lay backs and mostly 8++). For now Magnum Opus to belay at the trees is open. From belay move up and left over outside corner via large expanding flake or side walk up lower to the smooth lichen face. The crux face moves ahead are two clips made to far away to be user friendly. Scary foot surface for overextending my body length. Glad I got up to the clip crux by stemming up friction with an under cling feature in the scallop lichen wall. Better to clip than fall and C0 held sling to clip. Easier provocative moves to another clip reach it clip. Climb settles down on the large covered in scallop lichen outside edge with rest stance. Its easier 5.6 up lichen covered rock bulges to the selected rappel perch 15 feet down from the top walk off. Last 15 feet to top is crawling between trees on dirty rock.
Put it on my highest approval list and needs some friction cleaned. Power scrubbed it would be a two star route and possibly more because of its ambiance. One of my greatest bombs ever. We did our best to make it a nice bomb but bomb potential remains on first pitch near belay. Oh well the biggest bomb must remain alpine in nature. Challenging being not user friendly. My best climbing comes out on these worse surface types. Mind F)7/ work out doing the processing quick on how to stay up while making progress on this one almost slipped away on me. Invigorating.
Leave every rock in place, please, maintain environment below and at the guillotine rock because no erosion keeps all rocks in place. Cleaning out the rocks below the trees holding the half tonne guillotine slab rock it will become loosened. Its probable the guillotine rock will rock slide down Hinterland's Trail or while on this climb. Everything is okay presently. It's all got to change someday from freeze thaw action. The guillotine rock got hung up on some trees when it slid off the cliff a while back. The balancing act of rock and tree determinism to live keeps the rock safer. The tree should live many more years. You'll see what I mean by its fine and there is bolt above the guillotine rock now.
ROCK!

Location 

Won't have access easily until easy access is made again. Figure it out. There is a eye bolt protected dangerous vegetation way to the base, off of the trail. A scary easy down climb from where the ladder used to be is doable. We rappelled into it but it is way to complicated to explain where and how and very dangerous to climber's below if you don't do it exactly the way we did. There is a lot of large loose rock on this upper wall. Our climb isn't on any of it at the top.

Protection 

eye bolts and sleeve bolt anchors


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By bradley white
From: Bend
Nov 13, 2013

Don't rate my climbs by consensus. I rate mostly a climb's location. Obedient to consensus saves lives. This climb consensus knows is a bomb. The likeliness of loose rocks will be managed bombs, a member of the bomb squad. I like to disarm bombs a little and set off explosions by rock trundles when deemed necessary. Lots of rock could be thrown off at the first belay. Behavior has been leave little too no track we have been there.
An outstanding alpine climb, very pleased with us and I getting up it all and the rappel set ups being sound. The balancing act community over on the left wall I won't climb it. Time bomb guillotine rock and if, cleaned up over the years its removed. This could become a popular clean safest rated, star or more by the home improvements, better off it will be, good, Okay, so say we all.
Searching for the answers in my ability, I need the climb naturally the way I meet it, philosophically it will be the safest while I do my best to make up it. Navigation takes brain work and my mind feels invigoration. Don't fall, didn't, fulfilling and less after the fall.
That's why and how I climb.
This climb is hot and wasn't sure I would make or get burned. We finally pull it off. I had Peters help on this one. Its got surprises and it's got a hot spot or two.
The Gunks in New York were covered in lichen until a iron smelting factory polluted the air at these ledges and killed off all of the lichen. Directisma was covered in lichen on its first ascent in 1941 and stayed that way until the pollution removed the lichen. Regarding the standard of rating a climb nowadays, Directisma would be a bomb and most of the climbs at the Gunks would be bombs. This is why I hate the rating system nowadays for my hands, feet, and choose to partake in the old ways of doing climbing. Something in the grand design of what a person can actually do is lost when a climb is scrubbed clean before it is climbed. Our travelling on climbs is enough to keep hands and feet able to cling too the rock during and afterwards.
I don't object to routes being scrubbed either and did scrub a little on 'Kindling' before climbing it because otherwise it would have been a suicide route. My choice to the question of balance, should it be for humans or nature? I choose nature. Its not the popular way to climb rocks today.
It is our popular new ways to protect climbers and view what has to go and be removed first, so it becomes naturally aesthetically pleasing and safer to most of us by removing rocks, plants, trees, dirt, leaves, moss and lichen from a wall, all the stuff that makes a climb a bomb. Afterward, great job cleaning that new route but disastrous to nature.
No wonder I have so many bomb climbs that are my favorites and there will be plenty more FA bombs I will find to climb. They're the bomb!

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