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BETA PHOTO: Climber passing by the lollipop tree on pitch two.
This interesting route passes under a guillotine-like flake near the top of p1, hence the name.
p1: climbs a shallow depression in the face with some foliage, then up and right through a shallow dihedral with a bush at its base; continue up cracks and then under a flake into the guillotine cave. A 60 m rope will allow you to continue up and left above the flake to a good belay ledge. With a 50 m rope, set a belay at the flake, then scramble up to the ledge to set a belay for p2.
p2: Climb up toward a large red flake and pass between it and a "lollipop" shaped tree on steep protectable rock; continue up cracks to a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Chile Verde
) or anchor off trees to the right. This pitch is better than p1.
The start is about 3 m right of the large juniper tree at the base of Refritos. The route is between Refritos
(long black streak) and Techo al Derecho
. For the descent, hike up and trend left until you see cairns marking the good descent trail that comes down the backside.
Trad rack of stoppers and cams to 3", 6-8 double length runners; 60 m rope recommended.
BETA PHOTO: Climber about 2/3 up on the first pitch. The rope ...
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
This climb is probably not where shown in the "Taos Rock" photo; it should be to the right of the line. It's not a big deal; most of this portion of cliff is 5.5-5.6 by any route.
There's a 2-bolt belay station on a good ledge 60m up (not shown on the topo).
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 14, 2010
Yes, P2 is indeed better than P1.
P2 passes to climber's left of the lollipop tree, as shown in Gary Clarks topo. I found it hard to make out the red flake.
June 2011 note: A rope measured at 55 meters didn't make it to the bolts without 10 or 15 feet of easy simul-climbing.