REI Community
High Rappel Dell Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Route T 
Baillie's Blindspot S 
Ball Bearing T 
Banana Peel T 
Bom Bay T 
Cerebral Palsy (Barber Route) T 
Chute, The T,S 
Crack of Doom T 
David's Climb S 
Debutante T 
Dulfer T 
Empire Strikes Back S 
Fred T 
Gambit T 
Gentle Persuasion S 
Guillotine T 
Huckleberry Thin S 
In The Dark S 
Last Chance T 
Last Word S 
Left Nut T 
Left Twin Crack T 
Looking In T 
Non-Dairy Screamer S 
Organic Farm T 
Pinnacle T 
Prescott Grain and Feed T 
Presidente T 
Pucker Factor S 
Redpoint Mania S 
Right Twin Crack T 
Rolling Stone T 
Sandbox T 
Savage Amusement T 
Seige T 
Silver Streak S 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Tail Tied Devil T 
Thank God T,S 
Wugit T,S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,895
Submitted By: misterclimberman on Mar 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
My wife finishing the traverse. This is a classic ...

Partially Closed.


Obvious large flake on the left side of the crag, right next to a gully (descent gully). start up akward offwidth, then traverse right on the flake, and finish up akward, but easy, wide crack.


large pro for start and end, medium (2 and 3 camalots) for the traverse, and a few smaller cams.

Photos of Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Guillotine, 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Guillotine, 5.8

Comments on Guillotine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I didn't do the 5.8 finish, I traversed left and finshed with the 5.easy corner. I was still a good time had by all!
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 6, 2008

The start of this route is the crux in my opinion. The offwidth portion takes a nice #3 camalot where you want it so you can save you big gear #3.5+ for the upper easy flake. If you don't have the big gear, you will likely feel comfortable running out the upper easy flake because you can't really fall out of it, you'll see. There's also a piton in there toward the top. There's belay anchors at the top, but you're best off walking off.
By presto
From: Prescott, AZ
Mar 6, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lots of fun, aesthetic line, and great range of styles in the climbing. Good protection. I agree with Jeremy Steck's comment.

Spoiler beta below:

Crux is at the bottom, use your gear well there. Footwork on the well-featured face keeps the climbing easy. Pin in upper portion can substitute wide gear through the second half. Awkward anchors if TR setup is not well constructed.
By Kevin Keith
Aug 4, 2015

New anchors at the top of this route make for an easy TR set up thanks to the Prescott Climber's Coalition and the American Safe Climbing Association. KK
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Beautiful arcing flake, very well protected, a recommended beginner lead. Agreed that the crux is the initial offwidth. Bringing a #5 cam is very helpful for the (easy) ramp section above the lil roof.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About