REI Community
Rose Ledge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) T,TR 
Chimney, The TR 
Delaney's Arete T,TR 
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) T,TR 
En Passant 
Everything is Purple 
Fun Crack (aka Fist Fight) T,TR 
Greeting Crack T,TR 
Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) T,TR 
Hampshire Corner T,TR 
Indian Summer Arete TR 
Joe Brown Special T 
King Phillip's Face TR 
Lip, The 
Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof) T,TR 
Marie Antoinette TR 
Off Width (aka Stetson Stumble) T,TR 
Paper Guillotine 
Partners in Climb T,TR 
Pendulum (aka Ben's Boot) T,TR 
Playland T 
Pommel Horse 
Rhino Dyno aka The Lunge TR 
Right Twin Crack T 
Rook Direct 
Rose Rash TR 
Sideline TR 
Snake Eyes 
Solar Flare T,TR 
Straight Crack T 
Summer Stroll T,TR 
Tale of Two Cities (aka Whoops) T,TR 
Tennessee T,TR 
Tiger Walk T 
Unknown V3/4 
Widowmaker (aka Leave it to Beaver) TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 4,404
Submitted By: Paul Crowder on Mar 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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BETA PHOTO: The Guillotine line. The crack to left of this is...


Begin in a left-facing dihedral to the right of Tennessee. Climb the dihedral to an overhang on the right. Pass the overhang with some difficulty, and step up a few moves to the top of the crag. It is easier if you're tall. The crack that ascends part of the face on the left of the dihedral is a separate climb, but can also be used to climb the first part of this route.


TR, or easily protected with a traditional rack, including nuts and small to large cams.

Photos of Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Overhead.
Double Overhead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy and Christy below Guillotine.
Andy and Christy below Guillotine.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tennessee on the left, Guillotine (aka Double Over...
BETA PHOTO: Tennessee on the left, Guillotine (aka Double Over...

Comments on Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) Add Comment
Show which comments
By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Feb 17, 2007

Another great climb. The roof is not as difficult as it might look, remember it's only 5.8. Also makes a great lead.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
May 17, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The Rose Ledge classic! Man do I have some memories of this place!!
By SP Boston
From: Watertown, MA
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This route has a good combination of stem and mantle moves down low and ceiling and juggy moves up high. It has long been a favorite of mine in the area and even though it was buggy on Memorial Day, it was good to be back on Guillotine. A good route for strong gym climbers making the transition to real rock.
By Sam J
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely would recommend bringing at 1-2 #2/#3 for the fist jam section before the roof.

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