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Guide Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 1,510
Submitted By: Jeff J on Oct 17, 2011

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Aka the back side of Gallation Tower, this is just right of the descent route. Many guides use this route to get new climber up to the top. Good for first time leads.

P1: is short (40-50 feet)and ends at two bolt hangers at a 8+ foot ledge.

P2: Continue to the large grassy ledge. clip bolt hangers at edge, there is chains 15 feet left but that is the rap station for the standard route decent. Or bulid gear belay in face of the next pitch. It is recomended that P1 and 2 be combined in to 1 35 M pitch.

P3: crux it at the bottom past two bolts (5.6/7) then procceed up in to the narrow chimney with great gear placement. Fun pitch for the grade Some people rap on this side so be weary of ropes flying past. 30M


Follow the trail up left (south) of the formation past a wall of hard bolted routs. When you get to the shoot (the tower decent end here) gear up and follow the the weekness staying on the right of the main wall.
Decent: Rap using chains to the right, you will decend in to a wide chimney on to steps. 50M will get you to the steps (3rd class), 60 M will get you back to the grassy ledge.


Gear to 3 inches and two bolts at crux. Chains at top.

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By Tim Gentry
Aug 27, 2017

Lost my phone on the grill ledge, it's in a blue lifeproof case. If anybody happens to find it let me know and I'll be forever grateful.

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