REI Community
Daff Dome, South Flank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14 Karat S 
Alimony Cracks T 
Alimony Cracks, right T 
Fingertips S 
Great Circle, The T 
Guide Cracks 1 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 2 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 4 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 3 T 
Hogwash S 
Liberation T 
Prespiration T 

Guide Cracks 3 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,565
Submitted By: M. Morley on Jul 23, 2007

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The 5.5 Guide Crack

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


The "Guide Cracks" are 4 short cracks (60-70'). The right two cracks share a bolted anchor, and the left two cracks share another bolted anchor. Right to left the routes are 5.5, 5.7, 5.8, and 5.8.

All four routes are easily protectable with a modest rack. This is an ideal area for the aspiring trad leader to gain crack climbing experience.


Center of South Flank.


Light rack.

Photos of Guide Cracks 3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Guide Cracks.  The climber is on the 5.7.  The...
BETA PHOTO: The Guide Cracks. The climber is on the 5.7. The...

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By Joseph Lascurain
From: Cincinnati
Jun 30, 2013

I added route descriptions on three of the Guide Cracks as to provide a little more detail on the area. Based upon what I added this climb would be "Guide Crack #3". Since the consensus on this page is 5.7 this made the most sense to me.

By Wayne Foulkes
Nov 26, 2013

Great short lead climbs,fun to do. Really nice views , short hike from the road
By Crimpanzee Shortt
From: San Francisco, California
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not fun and a little awkward, but I guess good practice to TR? I'd still say to jump on some multi instead of wasting time here.
By Andy W
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 2, 2017

Great for easy quick crack cragging, and perfect for those learning to jam or place gear. Bottom can be spicy due to potential ground fall but can be well sewn up with .4-.75 and nuts. Top hand jams were great, but the new leader may want some extra hand size pieces to not feel run out.

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