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Daff Dome, South Flank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14 Karat S 
Alimony Cracks T 
Alimony Cracks, right T 
Fingertips S 
Great Circle, The T 
Guide Cracks 1 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 2 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 4 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 3 T 
Hogwash S 
Liberation T 
Prespiration T 

Guide Cracks 1 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Joseph Lascurain on Jun 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Guide crack 1 on the left above the pillar, 2 in t...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the left most line of the Guide Cracks. Ascend a left facing dihedral to the the top of the pillar. Head up the crack until you can move right onto the slab and bolted anchor.

Location 

Left most Guide Crack.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Anchor consists of two good bolts with chains. Optional old third bolt could be used for directional.


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By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A bit stout off the ground. Short tho
By Crimpanzee Shortt
From: San Francisco, California
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Slippery and pretty tough for 5.8.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tough for the grade, though short. UK grade top end VS 5a: a bit reminiscent of Altar Crack at Rivelin Edge.

It's possible to continue past the bolt anchors up easier ground to give a 200' pitch, then walk down.
By Andy W
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 2, 2017

Two possible starts; thin and tricky start on the left side (I felt was harder than 5.8) or the very fun fist/big hand crack on the right side (cruiser 5.7). Rest of the route is more a balancy face climb on large crystals utilizing the crack for pro and the occasional jam, all in the 5.8- range.

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