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Guernica (To first anchor) S 
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Guernica (To first anchor) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dustin Stephens
Page Views: 1,404
Submitted By: Alex Mitchell on Dec 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (112)
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Damon thinking he's on something easier.

Description 

Start with a boulder problem to HUGE plates. Pull over an interesting flake feature to cool door knob like holds.

Location 

Next route left of Brief History of Climbing.

Protection 

8 Bolts


Photos of Guernica (To first anchor) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Guernica
Guernica
Rock Climbing Photo: Cory sticking the dynamic last move.
BETA PHOTO: Cory sticking the dynamic last move.

Comments on Guernica (To first anchor) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Zucca
From: University Heights
Oct 25, 2015

Amazing finishing dyno to the chains on this one! Super fun move
By jjjjjjjjjj
Oct 30, 2015

This route is fantastic. There was a nice slab section, a nice overhang section, a cool vertical flake, and at the top there were some plates spread out enough for a dyno. The whole thing looks similar to Brief History of Climb and is totally worth trying if you're stuck waiting for 27 years of climbing or BHoC (typical).
By S. Neoh
Oct 30, 2015

Consensus of .11a by a wide margin at redriverclimbing.com (Ray's site). Seems like last move is harder for shorties like us. Will try this route the next time I find myself at The Gallery.
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Nov 5, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Climbs like 3 individual boulder problems all separated by no-hands rests. The last bit up the sidepulls and plate jugs is a blast! Exciting finish
By JillianWeller
Dec 17, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The last "dyno" move can be done static by a 5'1" climber
By highneed
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Much more interesting than its neighbor. Was there with 3 other groups (10 total climbers) and 10 onsited the climb, 0 did a dyno. Definitely stick clip the first bolt.
By Derrick Keene
From: Kentucky
Apr 10, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'd give it 11a for the move up top and since its not sustained 10 climbing. The middle section makes the route feel a lot easier, but there are some decently tough moves in the beginning and at the end. Not sure how others skip the dyno, but I went right to a nice side pull/undercling and up to the last big flake. Really fun route!

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