REI Community
(3) Long Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of White Dragons T 
Cross T 
Dragonfly T 
Dragonslayer T 
Family S 
Fear Only Fear Itself S 
Fireman's Ladder T 
Golden Gate Roof T 
Golden Gate Slab S 
Guava Banana T 
Heping S 
Inconceivable S 
Long Lane Dihedral T 
Long Lane Loose T 
Plausible S 
Pocket Dihedral T 
Pocket Overhang S 
Rated G S 
Reach for the Sky S 
Renai S 
Rhino Dihedral S 
Sky Ladder S 
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 
Skyhook S 
Upon A Painted Ocean T 
Virtues On A Street Sign S 
Xinyi S 
Zhongxiao S 

Guava Banana 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Baile Huang, Ta-Chi Wang ('05)
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: greg k on Mar 24, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>


yet another bolted weakness! never fear, you can skip all of those unsightly bolts that demarcate this fun route with very inspiring gear.
i never found the 11c move… one could perhaps turn it into an 11c, heck i bet if you're skilled enough you could turn it into a 14, but it seems that it would require quite a bit of contrivance.


on right side of long lane's bulletin board (approx. 2 m. left of long lane entrance). shares start with rhino dihedral


standard rack.
316 steel (2005)

Lead bolts disappear after the 2nd roof

Comments on Guava Banana Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWS
Mar 26, 2014

The first ascensionist is very, very short (although damn strong!). The grade may reflect her need for extra movement or inability to reach the opposing wall for stems.
The "11c" crux is if you climb the route as an eliminate - I believe it requires you to take the final tiered roof directly, with no stemming out right. The "true" grade is probably in the hard 5.10 range.

Regarding the bolts: different strokes, different folks etc. The local bolting ethics are a bit different than in those the US, especially since development ramped up in the early 2000's.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Nov 10, 2015

This route is described as though climbing the bottom half of Plausible, pulling the roof, then continuing up the left side of the face. The initial slab is really easy, and all routes were FA'd without bolts on this section. At the roof, you can plug some gear and pull it directly (10+, airy), or just step left following Plausible, then once above the roof step back right and follow obvious weaknesses to the top of the wall. The grade must be for continuing up the face after the roof, which may or may not be how it was FA'd... but if it was, it's basically a very brief bolted boulder problem 30 feet off the deck.


Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About