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(3) Long Lane
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Guava Banana 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Baile Huang, Ta-Chi Wang ('05)
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: greg k on Mar 24, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

yet another bolted weakness! never fear, you can skip all of those unsightly bolts that demarcate this fun route with very inspiring gear.
i never found the 11c move… one could perhaps turn it into an 11c, heck i bet if you're skilled enough you could turn it into a 14, but it seems that it would require quite a bit of contrivance.

Location 

on right side of long lane's bulletin board (approx. 2 m. left of long lane entrance). shares start with rhino dihedral

Protection 

standard rack.
316 steel (2005)

Lead bolts disappear after the 2nd roof


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By BrianWS
Mar 26, 2014

The first ascensionist is very, very short (although damn strong!). The grade may reflect her need for extra movement or inability to reach the opposing wall for stems.
The "11c" crux is if you climb the route as an eliminate - I believe it requires you to take the final tiered roof directly, with no stemming out right. The "true" grade is probably in the hard 5.10 range.

Regarding the bolts: different strokes, different folks etc. The local bolting ethics are a bit different than in those the US, especially since development ramped up in the early 2000's.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Nov 10, 2015

This route is described as though climbing the bottom half of Plausible, pulling the roof, then continuing up the left side of the face. The initial slab is really easy, and all routes were FA'd without bolts on this section. At the roof, you can plug some gear and pull it directly (10+, airy), or just step left following Plausible, then once above the roof step back right and follow obvious weaknesses to the top of the wall. The grade must be for continuing up the face after the roof, which may or may not be how it was FA'd... but if it was, it's basically a very brief bolted boulder problem 30 feet off the deck.

Weird.

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