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Guard House

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Guard House Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.20298, -105.31426 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,816
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 21, 2005
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This is an obvious buttress matching the Guardian Rock buttress just upstream. Many rocks in this canyon look ripe for exploring. Little documented activity is available at this point. Hopefully, B. Gillett's to-be-published guidebook will help. The buttress is about 300 feet tall. It may identified by a large R-facing dihedral up the middle of the crag. This is not a crag for the picky or high-end climber, just us ordinary, micro-exploring-types.

An old pin, old fixed, primitive slider nuts, and regrowth of vegetation at its base suggest it has been climbed long ago. However, information has not trickled down to the common man, yet. So, ascents feel like FAs here.

Cross the stream/river and go to the buttress. Expect a bit of bushwhacking despite the short approach. There is a bit of lichen on the rock due to its exposure. High water will make this more challenging during runoff times.

Descend to the right of the buttress down a slopey, grassy gully.

Getting There 

Find this crag along CO Hwy 7 going W from Lyons (US 36) along a straightaway just uphill from a narrows in the canyon. It lies between Scout Rock (downhill) and Guardian Rock (uphill). There are several pullouts in the area. There is a nice, brown, log cabin just above the road. It is about 3 and a half miles from US 36 & Hwy 7 in Lyons.

Climbing Season

For the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon area.

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Guard House
Rock Climbing Photo: Guard House photo (credit: Leo Paik).

Auld Lang Syne 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Colorado : Lyons : ... : Guard House
As described in the Gillett guide, this is a two-pitch affair. P1 ascends a grungy off-fingers right-facing dihedral adorned with two bushes (about 50 feet?) to a nice, wide ledge. Traverse the ledge leftward (passing the Eric Couldn't Come crack), and belay at the next right-facing dihedral. P2 follows the corner - with short jaunts to the face - to an OW/fists bulge that must be overcome (crux) then continues up. There are more bushes to drag yourself through! Ramps and easy mantl...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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