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Guanopsychotic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kayleen/Matt Castelli
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Matt Castelli on Jun 1, 2017

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Guanopsychotic.

Description 

This is a good route with a bit of everything. The first pitch is a 20m chimney.
It feels pretty secure if you know how to use your shins to bridge the gap! This could be done with just a set of #3-#6, but a Big Bro or two lets you get gear in earlier, 5.9.

For the Yosemite fans, the second pitch is the hermaphrodite's flake of the South Platte. Tunnel under the flake for 15-20m, them jam the good hand crack to the tree ledge. There is good pro all the way, 5.8 (SR).

Pivot the anchor around the tree, and take the FOURTH crack to the right up past one tree to the belay tree on top. This finger crack starts as a layback looking crack and is easy to miss, so don't take the other thinner cracks! 5.6, 30m. Small gear is useful. The route is guano free, FYI.

Location 

It is in the same alcove as Bat Shit Crazy on the left. The best access is by taking the tunnel in from the back (climber's left), but you can make an 4th class traverse in from Bat Shit Crazy.

Protection 

This can be done with a single rack (c3s-#6), but more small gear helps on the third pitch and a Big Bro or two lets you get pro earlier on the first pitch.


Photos of Guanopsychotic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The pitch 1 chimney.
The pitch 1 chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Guanopsychotic/Bat Shit Crazy alcove.
Guanopsychotic/Bat Shit Crazy alcove.
Rock Climbing Photo: Showing the whole route. Start in the alcove left ...
Showing the whole route. Start in the alcove left ...

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