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8-Cosmiques
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affordable Care T,TR 
Cohiba T,TR 
Guanobita T,TR 
Hand Traverse T 

Guanobita 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: TR Luke Wolcott
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 13, 2016

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Description 

Interesting route if you want to practice off-width and squeeze chimney - (if only it were longer).

Just go up the crack.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.
Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on sector 8 description page.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

Wide crack (more than a foot wide at bottom) about 16 feet left from right (S) end of sector wall.
Just right of a narrower crack which is just right of a wide alcove.

--> see Cosmiques sector routes Photo | | lower R cracks Photo <--

Protection 

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unconfirmed so far, but the Top-Rope First-Ascensionist felt that it should protect reasonably with a standard Trad rack, augmented perhaps larger stuff for the lower crack.

Top-Rope: Various rock holes or horns available for top anchor.
For access to top of cliff see ideeas on sector 8 description page.


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