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Guano Roof 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers, Les Ellison, and Brian Smoot, 1983
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: Vince Romney on May 15, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Guano Roof Route


Start the climb from the west end of the blocky shelf near the west end of the large roof system. The route moves out a hand crack that splits the roof on this west end of the roof system. It is visibly identified by a triangular prow that makes up the east side of the crack, and the copius smears of bat guano that coat the shelf immediately underneath the roof. Work up to the base of the roof, via easy, but un-protected climbing. Rope drag can be a major problem after passing the roof, so I placed a cam in the back of the crack, with a 3' sling, then placed another cam nearly at the lip with a 2' sling. This seemed to help out significantly. After dogdging the quano, much grunting and puffing puts you over the roof (after turning the lip, a big crystal helps immeasurably) past a fixed piece (whoever placed this had more hang-time than I do)and onto lower angle, yet surprisingly tricky climbing. Footwork is key through this section (as are small cams and nuts), then over a smaller roof, and on to the 2-bolt belay. Excellent fun on the roof, and consistent, attention-getting climbing throughout. Three more feet of roof and I'd give it three stars.


Cams to 3", one full set of stoppers.

Photos of Guano Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The old man, feeling the pain on the crux of Guano...
The old man, feeling the pain on the crux of Guano...

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By Vince Romney
May 18, 2004

Just thought I'd add... You may want to tape up, as the roof crack eats skin.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I don't know about tape man, you don't even need to jam this thing...

hint: figure out the horizontal double undercling move, then...
such a sweet, sweet kneebar...

that's probably how the fixed nut got in place, you can literally hang out there for a bit...of course, moving from the kneebar poses some problems...but its 10d after all!

the top of this climb is quite spicy...we found that you can either finish to the bolts (moving past the pin in the roof which seems useless) or you can exit left, earlier, and enjoy a pretty fun face section on micros...

overall...the roof is phenomenal!!! and the rest of the route just needs more traffic...

I'm putting PG13 because the top of this route seems way more spicy than, say the Fingertip Variation...the pin doesn't look worthwhile at all, the other option is some suspect blocky rock with good placements, then...the next placement is in a flake that looks to be, the rock at the top is really crispy...I say PG13 until convinced otherwise or it cleans up.

one last thing: the bolts at the top seem to be in good shape but both of them are so close to the edge that your carabiners will get snapped in half!...I thought girth hitching slings right to the hangers seemed to be best but...girth hitched slings! we backed up the anchor with a nut...either way...its not the best anchor placement I've seen...

all in all...I will definitely be back to do this one again! The roof is tremendously exciting!
By mountainsense
Oct 25, 2008

fun route! the gobs of droppings and the nesting hornets above the roof give it full value...
By wasatch boy
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 1, 2014

Fun Route. Use long slings for anything under the roof or you will be sorry later. Same for the fixed pin. The anchor bolts are poorly placed, and should be lengthened with two short sections of chain. If you are going to clip into them, use very small carabiners or quick links. It goes without saying, but they are not rap bolts, so plan to walk off.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I do recall that the knee bar/heel hook is the key - basically you can lock it in, let go, shake, reach up, re-jam, place gear, etc. Total circus trick.

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