|Type:||TR, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|Submitted By:||truello on Mar 13, 2009|
|Comments on Grungie Face||Add Comment|
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May 23, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Going straight up the face which is to the left of the Grungie Gully (and to the right of another gully: ? Hipster ?)
is not remotely 5.4
To get something like 5.4, start by climbing up the Grungie gully for about 10 feet, to where there is a wide ledge to the left. Then go up with two more steps on footholds on the ridge along the right side of the Grungie gully. Then go left onto the face and starting from there, climb up the face between the two gullies.
. (Going higher with feet on the right-side ridge before traversing left onto the face makes it easier but misses out on the most interesting face-climbing moves) .
. (Trying to start up the face directly from the wide ledge without stepping on the right ridge is harder than 5.4) .
Left-side Start: More interesting (and a bit harder) is to start by climbing the first 10 feet of the big gully which is about 10 feet to the left of the Grungie gully, then walk across the wide ledge to the Grungie gully, then continue as the previous paragraph. The easier (5.4) way to do this start is surprising, and fun when (if?) figure it out.
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Another possibility for a 5.4 pitch nearby (with a completely different top anchor) is to start up the Grungie gully for about 10-15 feet, then bear right into the wide inside corner between the Grungie gully and the Blazing Saddles inside corner. Go higher up that to just under a little roof, then step right into the Blazing Saddles corner and finish up that.