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Grundel City Boy 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Tim Walburn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,609
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 19, 2001

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Justin Jaeger, setting his heel just right for the...

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  • Description 

    A slappy problem on the BBC boulder under The Turning Point, just to the left of Original Grapple. Start sitting in a nook using 2 crimps then hug your way past the opposing sidepull system eliminating the detached blocks to the right and left.

    Stellar, but somewhat contrived.

    Protection 

    A pad in the nook, and one over a rock to the left will do ya dandy.


    Photos of Grundel City Boy Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Justin Jaeger with his heel still hooking, is look...
    Justin Jaeger with his heel still hooking, is look...
    Rock Climbing Photo: About to bust left on Grundel City Boy.
    About to bust left on Grundel City Boy.

    Comments on Grundel City Boy Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By jj
    Feb 26, 2003

    Just an update: the best flake on the climb was pulled off sometime in January (?), making the line much more difficult for those who blast straight up. It may (or may not) add a single grade for those who use the heel-hook beta. Now, instead of popping to the missing undercling flake, reach further to the hidden jugs/left edge of the boulder.

    --j.jaeger
    By Matt Battaglia
    May 5, 2010
    rating: V9 7C

    It seems that 2 grades should be posted for this problem: with crack (V9) and without crack (V10/11). With crack, one gets a good foot for the otherwise powerful opening sit sequence and then when the slopers turn foul you bust a hard move left back to safety in the crack. Talking to others who have done/tried this way the consensus seems to be V9ish (with crack). The straight up way, no crack, eliminates the foot and jug at the opening sit sequence and then forces a big move off horrible pinches and crimps to gain the lip and finish. Consensus on this one seems more like V10/11. Anyone feel much different about the grades?
    --Battaglia
    By Cesar Valencia
    Mar 6, 2016
    rating: V10 7C+

    I've tried this boulder for a long time now. After doing every other V9 in this area multiple times, I honestly don't believe this boulder is V9. Felt like V10 to me. This could be due to my height/reach. Anyway, I finally did it today with some alternative beta using a toe hook instead of the heel hook which gave me just enough reach to get to the crack. I also used a terrible left hand sloper instead of the big pinch to make this sequence work. Super fun climb, IMO. Glad to finally put it away.

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