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Harkonnen Castle
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Grumpies T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Derek Wolfe, Jamie Princo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,806
Submitted By: Furthermore on Mar 26, 2012

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From the top of Ham Rock (Harkonnen Castle)

  • Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Park at the first or second pullout west of the Garden of Garden of Eden parking area. Hike on slickrock and small washes to a slab with two bolts at the top. This slab is located west of the saddle between the Ham and the summit.

    Climb the slab to the two bolts, 20 feet of 5.3. Once at the top, traverse on a grassy ledge east to a easy class 3 crack which takes you to a short class 4 slickrock ramp 100 yards east of the saddle. At the top of the class 4 slickrock ramp, walk on a slickrock ledge west to a crack just below the saddle.

    Pitch 1. 15 feet.
    From the crack just below the saddle, climb up narrow body crack to the saddle, 5.8+. This is the crux.

    Pitch 2. 160 feet.
    Belay from the saddle and climb up a slickrock ridge, 5.0-3rd class to a 5.4 crack on the north side of the ridge. At the top of the 5.4 crack, regain the ridge proper to a headwall. Belay from the headwall.

    Pitch 3. 90 feet.
    From the top of the headwall, move south to a ledge with a large boulder. Belay from the Boulder, and climb up a very sandy unprotected crack, 5.8, to a slickrock ledge. From the ledge, climb the prominent chimney to a large block at the top, 5.6. At the top of pitch 3, it is a short class 3 scramble to the summit.

    Double 60 M rope rappel to the north from the boulder at the top of pitch 3. Watch the pull as there is a crack that would love to eat a knotted rope. Pull hard left.

    The top of the rappel deposits you on the top of class 4 slab.


    The route is located just west of the Garden of Eden Parking area.


    Set of cams and nuts. A BD #1 cam protects the 5.8+ crux.

    Rappel north from a webbing anchor at the top of pitch 3.

    Photos of Grumpies Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Grumpies
    Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Beta Photo.
    BETA PHOTO: Upper Beta Photo.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Tower Cheesin'
    Desert Tower Cheesin'
    Rock Climbing Photo: Balanced Rock looks tiny from the top
    Balanced Rock looks tiny from the top
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ham Rock (Harkonnen Castle) from the top of Bullwi...
    Ham Rock (Harkonnen Castle) from the top of Bullwi...
    Rock Climbing Photo: more like 5.6
    more like 5.6
    Rock Climbing Photo: a sunny look at it. start directly below the ham (...
    a sunny look at it. start directly below the ham (...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Topo
    BETA PHOTO: Lower Topo

    Comments on Grumpies Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Furthermore
    Jun 7, 2012

    It has been brought to my attention, and I would like to clarify, I did NOT place the two bolts located on top of the 20 foot 5.3 slab. I am not sure when those were placed or who placed them.

    As for the placement of those two bolts, I am not entirely sure why they were placed considering that the slab can be down-climbed or rappelled via a bush.
    By paul bucher
    From: moab, utah
    May 19, 2014

    check for closures. we started up the slab before we were told it was closed. (whoops, my bad). we did the slab sans rope but it felt like 5.6 . happy the bolts were there. i could down climb it but wouldn't want to. it may reopen before the posted aug. date.

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