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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ken Currens & Paul Landrum 3/75
Page Views: 3,153
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (101)
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Almost to the top

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Good warm up crack climb.
Start with a traverse from the right or a direct start into a shallow dihedral with a thin hands and finger crack to a bolted anchor.


Wildfire area


standard rack to 2.5"

Photos of Gruff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim climbing Gruff.  Nora providing the Belay.
BETA PHOTO: Tim climbing Gruff. Nora providing the Belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: gruff
Rock Climbing Photo: :)

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great fun. Good hands to a thin hands crux. Some #0.75 Camalots work well here. Then continue up to a funky mantle-into-tips-crack move. Conservative rack includes doubles to from thin to #2 Camalot, consider 3 in the #0.5 Camalot size range.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route crushed me. Obviously I need to refine my pure crack skills. This is a fine test of how you will do in the Lower Gorge: if you cruise it, you'll have a great time. If you don't, well, that golden tuff is full of bolts.

For gear: a lot of medium nuts, doubles in 0.6-1" (yellow Metolius, purple C4). Nothing bigger than #2.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 31, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Probably the easiest of the Wildfire/Catwalk 10a's in the Lower Gorge, this climb is a very often climbed warmup classic.

And now, there is a 10m extension on it as well that goes at about 10b! We're referring to it as "Gruff Plus."

From the top of Gruff traverse right 10 feet on very easy moves past some very old petrified birdshit (you don't need to touch any of it, but you will climb near it) to come up under the base of a left-facing handcrack roof. Pull through the roof on handjams and liebacks with tons of bomber gear. Definitely one of the easier roof handcracks you will find, and pretty straightforward considering how steep it is.

A couple handsized pieces (two #2s or a #2 and a #3), and something in the yellow or orange Mastercam range protect the roof perfectly.

Two bolts and chains are there right after you pull the roof. A 60m rope gets you down with a couple meters to spare. It is extremely difficult to clean the gear on rap/lower, so probably best to have a follower clean. You can also easily TR Wildfire and or Crime Wave from the new higher anchors.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 31, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The "Almost to the top" photo shows the extension very well.
By Sam Bedell
From: Bend, OR
Sep 7, 2014

I did the Gruff Plus extension this past weekend. The ledge scrambling and birdshit detracts from it, but the overhanging moves are really fun and straight forward. I placed a #3 and an overcammed #1 camalot but a #2 and a 0.75 would probably be ideal. I would rate it 5.10a relative to other gorge routes. If your goal is to just warm up for more cracks it's probably not worth your time, but if you like easy overhung climbing or have already done Gruff and want to do something different in that grade range I highly recommend it.
By Muscrat
Dec 13, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route to break into 10's in the gorge, it simply eats up gear. I have intro'd more people to 'the next level' on this route. But please be nice, don't take 2 hours on it! (Yes, i have seen it)
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 1, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

How do people give this 2 stars? This is a beautiful fun climb, great rock and great flow. I first did this climb 20 years ago and notice that it is now 40 year birthday of the FA this month.

The extension was done at least as early as 1998, probably earlier and had a temp gear anchor '98-2001 ish. I saw folks doing it in '98, I was certainly not the first.
By Brian Martin
From: Bend, OR
Jul 18, 2015

I give it two stars because it is good. Not great and certainly not classic. Especially with badfinger right there I would just skip this altogether if not for the easy grade. Personally I thought this was harder than Badfinger. The direct start was easier for me at 5'8" but the hardest part was the Awkward jams all the way up. I got maybe 2 hand jams and the rest was fingers, tips, and rattly fingers. A few thumbsacks broke it up and a couple no hands rests eases as well. Overall though, even on top rope, this was harder for me than quasar, cruel sister, and badfinger.
By the professor
May 21, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with Watt's description that Gruff has the most locking jams you'll likely ever find. Great route.

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