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Gruel Shoes 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Hare
Page Views: 958
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Jan 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

From the right side of the rock, climb left onto the rock, and turn a bulge on its left. Angle slightly right past bolts up a nice slab with interesting moves, including underclinging and liebacking a thin flake. B6 seems unnecessarily close to B5. A bomber placement for a purple Camalot is obvious in a horizontal two feet below B7. B7 is placed such that the gate of the carabiner clipped into the hanger is levered over the lip of the bulge, compromising the biner's strength. Maybe a tiny biner could be safer to clip there. Another placement for a purple Camalot exists above B7.

Location 

This is the rightmost bolted route.

Protection 

Seven bolts. I would take a purple Camalot (or two) to back up the seventh bolt. There are bolted anchors.


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By Mark Rolofson
Apr 26, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This route was established by Dan Hare. I rope soloed it in 2008 & have repeated it. I didn't find any gear necessary. You can always used a locking biner on the bolt hanger if you are worried about leverage.
By George Bracksieck
Apr 29, 2015

My point about the gear placements is that some of the bolts on this route are unnecessary, especially the one that compromises the carabiner.
By Mark Rolofson
Mar 23, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

We're not living in 1980s anymore, George. If a route is mostly bolt protected, then it is usually best to make it entirely bolt protected. If a climb is mostly bolt protected but requires a piece of two of gear, it presents a danger unless the gear is at the start. Many climbers will assume it is entirely bolted until they are up on the route. Personally I prefer a sport route to mixed gear & bolts route, unless half or more of the climb requires gear.

Ultimately, I believe the first ascentionist has the liberty of deciding how to establish a climb. Calling bolts unnecessary because you can place a cam, is a snobby old school opinion. Many routes have been led or free soloed without the bolts, but other climbers will still appreciate those bolts or find them needed.

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