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|Submitted By:||kenr on Aug 13, 2016|
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Aug 20, 2016
My first multi-pitch climb at Rush was in August 2016 with Neil from Mammoth Lakes. Since he's way more experienced than me at this sort of thing, he led all the pitches.
We started by scoping out the overall crag from the road by the Grant Lake Overlook. Decided that in the upper sector Grepon, a good bet for sound rock would be right center -- a bit right of an irregular large tree (bunch of less-large trees?) at the center of the upper wall. Then we hiked to the south end of the base, next walked north along the base to check out all the first-pitch sectors.
Since we were then near the north end, we started by getting up the left corner of sector Genepi, felt to me like around 5.8. Discovered a two-bolt anchor near the top, but just kept on going up into the gentle section below the upper rock sector Grepon.
We unroped and traversed roughly horizontally (3rd class) a long ways across this gentle section, checking features and rock quality potential above. Decided to try a bit right of center, and we roped up again.
Hardest sequence was in the first quarter of the overall route ... Wide slabby rock narrowed to a small passage, then above that quickly went back to wide again. Neil approached the narrow from the right, with the toughest move (felt to me like 5.8+) a long reach up to a crack under an overhang. I thought that the more significant concern was to make a long reach to place Trad protection before making that move. Neil successfully pulled that off. Then above the narrows crossed over to left side, which had more interesting climbing (and gave less rope drag).
Above that were sections of easier and sections of harder climbing which was interesting - see Photo - (but none again as hard as that lower crux). One steeper part started with a need to lead up somewhat high off a ledge before getting in protection (fortunately the holds were fairly positive).
At the top we found a wide open flat area. Next walked up south to a higher gentle area.
Descended easily to the north. But before getting down very far, we looked for features which might have interesting climbing, first finding the top of the Frendo Corner which we then climbed on Top-Rope. Then scrambled out around and down farther, and found the Two Potato Chips, and climbed the face beind them on Top-Rope.