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YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 120', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: B Heipler, A. Guthrie, 4/'74
Season: Great in the autumn, when cool and dry.
Page Views: 608
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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A summit route at 5.3 without caving? What more can you ask for? This climb is a bit broken up, to say the least, but still has some fun for the party who is competent at placing gear, but doesn't want a physical challenge.
Climb up the intial wide crack though the chunky-looking rock on good holds and the occasional jammed body part for a short pitch, to reach an initial ledge with trees. There is an optional belay from one of these (sometimes fixed slings are present).
Continue up and left on a second crak to a larger ledge and belay on that one (manditory).
From that ledge, walk or scramble a half-rope length on the ledge and over some blocks to the left to reach the base of an overhanging chimney (optional belay) before shoving oneself up through that slot and onto the tower summit.


A set of passive pro and cams to #4 camalot + long slings.


It is easy to find this route by first locating the obvious clean flake of 'Curving Crack' and then walking 15 meters left to the next obvious crack system, where the climb is begun.

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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From: Alabama
Jul 20, 2009

Sounds like fun! Wheres the pic's we want to see picks!
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I'd be interested in knowing where the second pitch goes on this route. I could see a squeeze chimney (not really a crack) that looked dirty and unprotectable; it didn't look like the way to go, so I pulled the overhang to the left and climbed up to some blank slab that seemed to be a dead end. So I downclimbed/downled back to the P1 ledge, hoping I'd be able to reverse my moves. At that point, we just bailed.

Not what I'd call a particularly worthwhile route, and laughably undergraded at 5.3.
By Stephen Smith
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

BEWARE - The large tree (about 10" diameter) is down on the optional first belay ledge. It looks like it will fall eventually. This tree can no longer be used as a rap station. There is one old rusty bolt on that ledge and not much else to bail on without leaving gear.

Ditto - Saxfiend. I had the exact same experience. I moved farther left than the unprotectable offwidth and climbed up the roof to the dirty slab, which luckily is protectable with tricams. You can rappel with a 60m rope from a tree on the ledge above. We did not attempt to reach the summit from the ledge above the slab.

From the description I would guess we should have continued traversing 100' left instead of attempting the offwidth or slab.

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